Category Archives: SOUP, STEW, AND CHOWDER RECIPES

GROUND BEEF AND VEGETABLE SOUP

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This recipe is an adaptation of a soup that appeared in the first cookbook I ever owned. In 1964 I received the gift of my still loved, but terribly battered first edition, third printing 1961 Betty Crocker cookbook from my Aunt Ruth. Along with several metal baking dishes, some of which I still use today. And one of the first recipes I tried from my new cookbook, was the bones of this recipe for a very simple, economical, savory, and healthy soup.

Of course in those days I wasn’t as much interested in healthy as I was in simply filling my new husband’s and my tummies at a price two full time college students could afford! (And no, there was no red wine in the original recipe, nor was there any red wine in our household.) We were basically eating anything that didn’t eat us first. And the likes of beer and wine were simply not in our budget. (Mores the pity!) 

But over the years I have added ingredients to the original recipe to make it my own. And today, when healthy counts more for us than the price of a dish, this soup is just as welled loved as it was in the 60s. It simply bursts with flavor, even though the ingredients are healthy and economical.

So if you too love a hearty soup that is easy to prepare, contains healthy ingredients, and is economical – give this recipe a try. (And no, you don’t have to be a starving student to enjoy this soup. But if you are a starving student, add more potatoes. That’s what I used to do.)

  • 2 tsp. oil (olive, vegetable, avocado, etc.)
  • 1 lb. lean ground beef
  • 1 medium onion, chopped
  • 2 carrots, sliced
  • 1 c. chopped celery
  • 3 garlic cloves, minced
  • ½ c. red wine
  • 2 c. beef stock
  • freshly ground black pepper
  • 1 bay leaf, crumbled
  • 1 tsp. dried basil
  • ½ c. ketchup
  • 1 tsp. Kitchen Bouquet
  • 1 tsp. Worcestershire sauce
  • 1 (14.5-oz.) can diced tomatoes
  • 2 small potatoes, cubed
  • 2 T. chopped fresh Italian parsley, opt.

Heat oil in a medium sized covered pan. Add the meat and cook until browned. Add the onion, carrots, and celery. Cook until the onion is translucent. Add the garlic and cook for 1 minute. Pour in the red wine and cook until almost all the liquid is evaporated. Add the beef stock, pepper, bay leaf, basil, ketchup, Kitchen Bouquet, Worcestershire sauce, and canned tomatoes. Bring to a boil, reduce heat, cover pan, and simmer gently for 30 minutes. Stir periodically. (Add water if the soup starts to stick to the bottom of the pan.) Add the potatoes and cook for another 30 minutes or until the potatoes are tender. Adjust seasoning, add parsley, and serve piping hot.  

HAM, FARRO, CANNELLINI BEAN, AND SWISS CHARD SOUP

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OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAWe have experienced a really strange summer this year in the Pacific NW. No rain for weeks on end, hot temperatures, and more aggressive winds than normal. Then suddenly about 2 weeks ago, the skies clouded over, the winds whipped up to a mighty force, and we received our first rain in months. And believe me, there was rejoicing heard all around our glorious state. The farmers were happy, the hardy folks fighting our numerous wild fires were ecstatic, and those of us who were trying to keep our yards and gardens alive could be found dancing in the showers while sending grateful thanks up to whichever benevolent deity would listen.

So now, after several decent rain storms our yards are looking better, the webs are starting to come back between our toes, and at least to this native Washingtonian, it appears that fall is on its way. Now don’t get me wrong. I’m not wishing for the gray days of winter to get here any sooner than they must. But when I wake up thinking about making soup, I know that it’s my own internal precursor to the onset of fall.   (Some people get aches and pains in their joints when fall weather approaches; I suddenly get a desire to build soup.)

So yesterday morning I decided to build a version of Deborah Madison’s Smokey Farro and Chickpea Soup. I changed a couple of ingredients to suit my taste, and added some ham to add a depth of flavor and additional protein. The result was an absolutely divine new addition to my fall and winter soup recipe collection. I hope you too will add this to your soup recipe repertoire. It is delightfully easy to prepare, healthy to the max, and absolutely delicious.

  • 4 c. water
  • 1 c. emmer farro (I use Bluebird Grain Farms organic Emmer Farro)
  • ¼ tsp. kosher salt
  • 2 T. extra virgin olive oil
  • 1 lg. onion, finely chopped
  • 2 stalks celery, finely chopped
  • ½ c. chopped fresh parsley
  • 2 garlic cloves, minced
  • 1 bay leaf
  • 1 heaping cup diced ham (for vegetarian soup, leave out ham)
  • 3 c. vegetable broth
  • 2 c. water
  • 1½ tsp. Spanish smoked paprika
  • freshly ground black pepper
  • 1 (14.5-oz.) can fire-roasted diced tomatoes, undrained
  • 1 (15-oz.) can cannellini beans, rinsed and drained
  • 4 c. chopped Swiss chard
  • 4 good sized green onions, thinly sliced
  • ¾ c. finely grated Parmesan cheese, garnish
  • garlic croutons (see recipe attached) or toasted baguette slices, opt.

Place the 4 cups of water, emmer farro, and salt in a covered pan. Place on high heat and bring to a boil. Boil for 5 minutes, stirring frequently. Reduce heat, cover, and simmer for about 45 minutes or until berries are plump and chewy. When the farro is done, drain, reserving the excess liquid, and set both the farro and reserved liquid aside. (You may need the liquid to thin out the soup at the end of the cooking time.)

Meanwhile, heat the olive oil in a large heavy covered soup pot and fry the onion, celery, and parsley for a few minutes until onion is tender, stirring frequently. Add the garlic, bay leaf, and ham; cook for 2 minutes. Add the broth, 2 cups water, smoked paprika, pepper, cannellini beans, and canned tomatoes. Bring to a boil. Reduce heat, cover pan, and simmer gently for about 20 minutes. (If the farro isn’t done after the soup is finished simmering, remove the soup from heat and set aside until the farro is drained and ready to be added to the soup.)  When the farro is drained and ready, place pot back on heat, and stir in the Swiss chard and farro. Simmer for about 3 minutes or until the chard wilts. Adjust seasoning. If the soup seems too thick, add some of the reserved farro cooking water. (You want a nice brothy soup.) Stir in the green onions just before ready to serve.

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Serve with Garlic Croutons or toasted baguette slices, and grated Parmesan cheese.

GARLIC CROUTONS

Chop up some small bite sized pieces of a chewy, artisan baguette. Place in a frying pan with butter or olive oil (or a combination) and sauté until each crouton is crunchy. (This takes about 45 minutes because you need to go low (heat) and slow.) Add more butter or oil as needed. When desired crunchiness is attained, sprinkle with granulated garlic. Allow to cool completely before placing in an airtight container.

 

ASIAN CHICKEN NOODLE BOWL

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Yesterday it was kind of dreary outside. So I decided before the warm weather sets in (like that’s going to happen any time soon in the Puget Sound area), I would build some soup. But I wasn’t in the mood for a bean soup, or a creamy soup. I wanted more of a broth and vegetables kind of soup. I also had a few veggies that needed to be used, so I went on line to see what I could find.

What I found was a recipe from Kathleen Daelemans that looked delicious. I modified Kathleen’s recipe to better work for our tastes, and which not coincidentally included some of the veggies that were screaming at me from their refrigerator bin. I then added some other ingredients like tofu, spinach, and basil that I thought would work well in a noodle bowl. The recipe below is the result.

Now having just told you that Kathleen’s recipe looked delicious, I should explain why I made so many changes. First of all – that’s what I do! And if truth be told, I simply can’t help myself. That’s because I know what Mr. C and I like. And the knowing part just comes from eating together for so long and from experimenting with many, many dishes over the years. And because, first and foremost, most recipes for soups, stews, and the like are simply guidelines; wide open to be modified to suit your own tastes or to include ingredients you happen to have on hand. And my recipe below is no different from Kathleen’s recipe in that regard.

The amount of garlic or ginger, for example, can easily be changed. You happen to have carrots on hand; they can certainly be added. You hate pea pods; leave them out!

I guess what I am saying is that half the fun of cooking for me, and I suspect for you too, is the experimentation aspect. And you have to know, that if I can’t help myself from changing perfectly good recipes to suit my personal tastes, then I can’t expect you not to do the same.

So use my recipes following every ingredient and amount to the letter, or change any of my recipes to your heart’s content. Just do yourself a favor when you are making changes. Write the changes down as you go along. I can’t tell you how mad you are going to be at yourself if you create the perfect “whatever”, and then can’t repeat yourself because you have forgotten what you changed. And no, even if you think you are going to remember what you did, 3 months from now you aren’t going to remember. OK, if you’re only 23 you might remember. But if you are over 60, the chances are really slim. Heck, you might not even remember what day of the month it is, much less what changes you made to the original recipe. You really want to take that chance? I doubt that seriously. So simply have a pencil handy while you are building the dish and take notes as you go along. Someday you’ll thank me, I know you will. (I’m not going to hold my breath you realize. But I know some day I will hear from you with effusive words of thanks. It’s simply inevitable.)

  • 4 T. tamari (rich, naturally fermented soy sauce)
  • 2 T. shaohsing (Chinese rice wine) or mirin (Japanese sweet cooking wine)
  • 2 tsp. sesame oil, divided
  • 2 cloves garlic, minced
  • 1 T. minced fresh ginger
  • 2 tsp. sugar
  • 2 T. rice vinegar
  • freshly ground black pepper
  • ½ tsp. Sriracha, plus more for the table
  • 8 c. chicken broth
  • 5-6 button mushrooms, halved and then thinly sliced
  • 1 lb. boneless, skinless chicken breast meat, cut crosswise into thin strips
  • 4 c. chopped Napa cabbage
  • 1 c. chopped fresh spinach
  • 6-oz. rice noodles, cooked according to the package directions
  • ½ block firm or extra-firm tofu, cubed
  • ½ c. thinly sliced pea pods
  • ¼ – ½ c. chopped fresh basil or cilantro leaves
  • 6 green onions, thinly sliced on the bias
  • 1 lime, cut in wedges, opt.

Mix soy sauce, shaohsing, 1 teaspoon of the sesame oil, garlic, ginger, sugar, rice vinegar, pepper, and Sriracha in a small bowl. Heat the broth in a medium saucepan. Add the soy sauce mixture, the mushrooms, chicken, Napa cabbage, and spinach and bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer for two minutes or until chicken is cooked through. Add the remaining 1 teaspoon sesame oil. Taste and adjust seasonings. Stir in the cooked noodles, tofu, and sliced pea pods. Scoop soup into large bowls and garnish with basil and green onions. Pass lime wedges and Sriracha at the table as “do it yourself” garnishes.

Please note: to make this a GF dish, use GF tamari

 

SALMON, BACON, AND CORN CHOWDER

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Yesterday morning Mr. C. reminded me that we had 2 small salmon fillets in our freezer that were not only looking lonely, but fast becoming past their prime. (Aren’t we all!) So never being one to ignore such a gentle yet sinfully correct hint, I decided to figure out a way to prepare the salmon in a new and exciting way. And not coincidentally, use up a few other aging ingredients (half a red pepper, fresh dill, open container of chicken stock) before they too became unredeemable.

Before Mr. Cs suggestion that the salmon was fast becoming an endangered species, I had already planned to fix some kind of soup for dinner. We had been gone several evenings in a row, and what I really yearned for (and truly needed) was a simple home cooked dinner and an early intimate rendezvous with my pillow.

So I decided to stick with my original plan to make soup for dinner. I had eaten smoked salmon chowder before, but had found it a bit rich. And the last thing I wanted last evening was an over the top rich dinner. So I started with a standard creamy chowder base and added poached salmon pieces right at the end. I knew I had to be careful not to make the soup part so flavorful that the delicate taste of the salmon would be overpowered. I wanted the base soup to enhance the flavor of the salmon, not detract from it.

So this is my take on a quick and easy to prepare fresh salmon chowder. I hope you enjoy it. And don’t forget the oyster crackers. They are just so darned cute, and crunchy to boot!

  • 3 slices lean, thick-cut bacon, diced
  • 1 T. butter
  • ½ c. chopped onion
  • ½ c. chopped celery
  • ½ c. chopped red pepper
  • ½ c. shredded carrot
  • 1 garlic clove, minced
  • 2 c. chicken broth
  • 1 lg. Yukon gold potato, peeled and diced
  • ½ tsp. kosher salt
  • freshly ground black pepper
  • 1½ tsp. finely chopped fresh dill or ½ tsp. dried dill weed + more for garnish
  • 1 can whole kernel corn, drained
  • 2 c. half-and-half
  • 1 T. cornstarch
  • 1¾ to 2 c. fully cooked salmon chunks (left-over salmon is perfect in this chowder)
  • oyster crackers, opt.

In a large covered soup pot, fry diced bacon until crisp. Remove from pan and drain on paper towels. Set aside. Add butter to the pan (don’t remove bacon fat) and add the onion, celery, red pepper, and carrot. Cook just until the onion is translucent, about 5 minutes. Add the garlic and cook for one minute. Add the chicken broth, potato, salt, pepper, and dill; bring to a boil. Reduce heat; cover and simmer for 20 minutes or until the potato is fork tender. Stir in the corn and the half-and-half that has been whisked together with the cornstarch. Slowly bring to a boil, reduce heat and simmer for 3-4 minutes or until thickened. Add the salmon chunks and reserved bacon and simmer until heated through. Adjust seasonings.

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Serve garnished with fresh dill. (Oyster crackers on the side are delightful.)

VEGETARIAN THREE BEAN CHILI

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In an effort to reduce the amount of meat, fat, and dairy products in our daily diet, while at the same time increasing the number of beans we consume, I decided to work up a vegetarian chili recipe.

I prepared this chili last night for dinner and both of us thought it was wonderful. The saucy part was very flavorful. The corn actually provided a bit of a crunch and the olives had enough of a different texture as to create a lovely mouth feel. (Not to mention a wonderful taste). Then of course the crisp and pungent bite from the red onion added just before serving – marvelous. And nary a morsel of meat, sprinkling of cheese, or dollop of sour cream to be seen or needed. This chili and a nice piece of cornbread (made with canola oil, not butter) and you have a lunch or dinner that anyone watching their cholesterol would be happy to eat on a regular basis. And did I mention it was really easy to prepare?

So give this recipe a try. Just don’t forget to stock up on “beano” when you purchase the ingredients for this dish. And if you don’t know what “beano” is, suffice it to say you have lived a charmed life!

  • 1 T. olive oil
  • 1 medium carrot, chopped
  • 1 onion, chopped
  • 2 celery stalks, chopped
  • 2 garlic cloves, minced
  • 1 can (28-oz.) chopped tomatoes (Italian preferably)
  • 1 can (6-oz.) tomato paste (again – Italian preferably)
  • 2 c. water
  • 1 T. Dijon mustard
  • 2-3 tsp. chili powder
  • 1 tsp. ground cumin
  • 1 tsp. dried oregano
  • 1 tsp. paprika
  • pinch ground cloves
  • 1 tsp. kosher salt
  • freshly ground black pepper
  • 1 can (15-oz) cannellini, kidney, or chili beans, rinsed and drained
  • 1 can (15-oz) black beans, rinsed and drained
  • 1 can (15-oz) garbanzo beans, rinsed and drained
  • 1 can (15-oz) whole kernel corn, drained
  • 1-2 cans black olives, drained and halved (I use about a can and a half and munch on the rest later)
  • chopped red onion, opt.

Heat olive oil in a large covered soup pot. Add the carrot, onion, and celery and sauté until the onion is transparent. Add the garlic and cook for one minute. Stir in the chopped tomatoes, tomato paste, water, mustard, chili powder, cumin, oregano, paprika, cloves, salt, and pepper. Bring to a boil, reduce heat, cover, and simmer for 30 minutes. Stir periodically. Add the beans, corn, and olives and simmer covered for another 30 minutes. Adjust seasoning. Serve garnished with chopped red onion.

PALÓCLEVES (HUNGARIAN LAMB SOUP WITH SOUR CREAM)

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Those who know us personally know that we love to travel. And what I’m sure our friends realize almost intrinsically about our whole “travel thing” is that not only do we love to see the world for the cultural heritage and the natural and manmade sites that appeal to us and every other tourist, we love to travel to experience the food! (Well of course we do.)

So we tend to choose countries based on what we know about the cuisine. I visited England, Scotland, and Wales in the late seventies, and have never returned. (Lesson learned.) I first visited Italy in the mid eighties, and have since been back three times. We also have loved the food in other European countries we have visited. But one of the countries we have yet to visit is Hungary. (We have traveled in the neighboring countries of Croatia and Slovenia and eaten like kings, so now it’s simply time to go to the land of sour cream, paprika, and caraway seeds.) And of course, while we are touring the country we absolutely must stay a few days in Budapest. We have several friends who have spent time there, and they consider Budapest to be one of the loveliest cities on earth.

So, until we can visit this amazing country in person, I am going to have to be content to research the many culinary offerings Hungary has to offer via the internet. (Actually, I have been making Chicken Paprika for years. And truly, it is one of Mr. Cs favorite dishes. But until I prepared this soup last evening (thank you Saveur Magazine), Chicken Paprika was the only Hungarian dish I had ever prepared, that I’m aware of that is.)

So hang on folks, in the next few weeks we are going to visit one of the oldest countries in Europe (founded 897) together.

So here’s to a fun new adventure learning about the birthplace of the Rubik’s Cube (inventor Erno Rubik), Béla Bartók and Franz Liszt. And to a country with a 99% literacy rate. And to the home of Europe’s largest natural grassland. (Complete with real life cowboys (csikos) I might add.) Wee ha!

  • 2 T. extra virgin olive oil or more as needed
  • 16-20 oz. lamb shoulder, trimmed of all fat and sinew and cut into ½-inch cubes
  • kosher salt
  • freshly ground black pepper
  • 2 large yellow onions, finely chopped
  • 8 cloves garlic, finely chopped
  • 4 bay leaves
  • ¼ c. Hungarian sweet paprika
  • ¼ tsp. cayenne pepper
  • 6 c. water
  • 1 small russet potato, peeled and cut into ½-inch cubes
  • 8 oz. yellow snap or green beans, cut into 1-inch pieces
  • 1½ c. sour cream, plus more for garnish
  • ¼ c. flour
  • 4 T. roughly chopped dill, divided

Heat the oil in a 6-qt. covered saucepan over medium-high heat. Dry lamb off with paper towels and sprinkle liberally with salt and pepper. Add lamb to the pan, and cook until browned all over, about 8 minutes. Add onions, garlic, and bay leaves to the pot. (If necessary, add a little more oil to the pot.) Cook until the onions are soft, about 15 minutes. Add paprika, cayenne, and water; bring to a boil, cover pot, reduce heat and cook until lamb is just tender, 40-60 minutes. Add the potato and beans, and cook until vegetables are tender, about 30 minutes. Meanwhile, whisk the cup and a half sour cream and flour together until smooth. When the meat and veggies are tender, whisk the sour cream mixture into the soup, and stir until smooth and slightly thickened, about 10 minutes. Just before serving, add 2 tablespoons of the dill to the soup and adjust seasonings. To serve, ladle soup into bowls, dollop with additional sour cream, and garnish with remaining dill.

SHRIMP GUMBO

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I think many people shy away from Creole and Cajun food because they think it’s going to be too spicy. They hear words like gumbo filé and Creole seasoning and they automatically shy away. And it’s true, some Creole and Cajun dishes can be very spicy, but they don’t have to be. And this recipe, based on a recipe from Marcela’s Creole Cookery in Seattle, contains a bit of heat but only enough to compliment the other ingredients. And that’s good. The last thing you want is a sauce that is so spicy hot that the wonderful taste of your expensive shrimp is completely obliterated. (Along with your taste buds, I might add!)

So figuratively speaking, this sauce is the perfect foil for shrimp. Then all you need is a big old ball or two of cooked rice, and you have a simple and delicious one course meal.

Now like any other stew like dish, there are about as many recipes for gumbo as there are Louisiana residents. And many of them are fabulous. (The stews that is; I don’t know about all the residents!) But we especially like this gumbo recipe because it is fairly mild. (Did I mention that both Mr. C and I are both kind of wusses when it comes to really spicy food?)

So if you are a person unfamiliar with Creole or Cajun food, but consider yourself in possession of a sophisticated and educated uraniscus (palate), step on out of your comfort zone and travel “culinarily speaking” down to the land of Marti Gras, hush puppies, and bread pudding. Make yourself up a batch of this gumbo honey and there will be no turning back.

  • ¼ c. canola oil
  • ¼ c. flour
  • 4 c. chicken stock, heated to almost boiling
  • ½ small onion, chopped
  • 4 chopped green onions
  • 2 lg. stalks celery, chopped
  • 3-4 cloves garlic, minced
  • 1½ tsp. dried thyme
  • 1 tsp. gumbo filé powder
  • 3 bay leaves
  • freshly ground black pepper
  • pinch cayenne pepper
  • ½ tsp. commercial Creole seasoning or see recipe for homemade Creole Seasoning below
  • 1 lb. uncooked large shrimp
  • cooked rice

In a large covered saucepan, cook the oil and flour over medium heat until it is chocolate colored, about 25 minutes, stirring continuously. (If it burns, throw it away and start over!) Carefully whisk in the hot chicken stock, reduce heat, and simmer uncovered for 15 minutes.

Add the onion, green onions, celery, garlic, thyme, gumbo filé powder, bay leaves, pepper, cayenne, and Creole seasoning. Cover the pan and gently simmer for 1½ hours, stirring occasionally. (Add additional chicken stock if needed.) Adjust seasoning (probably will need salt), remove bay leaves, add the shrimp, and simmer until the shrimp are just cooked through.

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Serve with cooked rice.

Creole Seasoning:

  • 1/3 c. paprika
  • 3 T. dried oregano
  • 3 T. freshly ground black pepper
  • 2 T. dried basil
  • 2 T. kosher salt
  • 1 T. cayenne pepper
  • 1 T. onion powder
  • 4 tsp. dried thyme
  • 4 tsp. granulated garlic

Combine all ingredients and store in an airtight container. Makes about 1 cup.

 

CANNELLINI BEAN SOUP WITH HAM AND GREENS

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So, here it is, the first day after Mr. C had surgery on one of the fingers on his left hand (and yes of course he’s a lefty), it’s rainy outside, and I’m thinking “what can I fix for dinner that will be both easy for Mr. C to eat and contain ingredients I already have”? Well the answer came to me immediately. Some like it hot! (Hot soup that is!) So I retrieved a ham hock from the freezer, set some cannellini beans on to boil and proceeded to develop a recipe that included the ingredients I had on hand.

Over the years I have found that some of my best dishes were conceived when I started with what I had readily accessible. No going to the store for that one precious ingredient, just making do with what was in the refrigerator and/or pantry. And all bragging aside, this soup turned out really really good. In fact Mr. C stated that it was one of the best soups I ever made. Now of course, Mr. C was still on pain pills, but regardless, I know a good soup when I taste one too!!

So give this soup a try. It’s delicious and just perfect for a cold and wet fall or winter meal. And please include the hot olive oil drizzle that goes on the soup just before serving. It absolutely makes the dish. So stay warm dear friends during this upcoming “season of the clouds”. And of course – think soup. It’s easy to prepare, inexpensive to make, and soul satisfying.

  • 2 c. dry cannellini beans
  • 6 T. extra virgin olive oil, divided
  • 1 yellow onion, chopped
  • 1 carrot, chopped
  • 1 celery stalk, chopped
  • 6 garlic cloves, minced and divided
  • 3 tsp. minced fresh rosemary leaves, divided
  • 1 tsp. dried marjoram
  • freshly ground black pepper
  • 1 (14 oz.) can chopped tomatoes (preferably Italian tomatoes)
  • 4 c. chicken broth
  • 2 c. water
  • 1 good sized smoked ham hock
  • 4 c. roughly chopped greens (kale, Swiss chard, spinach, etc.)
  • finishing salt of choice or coarse kosher salt

In a small covered sauce pan, add the beans and 4 cups of water. Bring to a boil, remove from heat, cover, and let sit for about 2 hours. Or cover the beans with water and let sit in the refrigerator overnight. Drain and rinse before adding to the soup.

Heat 2 tablespoons of the olive oil in a large saucepan over medium-high heat. Add the onion, carrot, and celery and cook for a few minutes until onion begins to soften. Add 2/3rds of the garlic, 2 teaspoons of the rosemary, marjoram, and pepper and cook for about 1 minute or until the garlic is fragrant. Add the canned tomatoes, chicken broth, water, drained cannellini beans, and ham hock and bring the mixture to a boil. Reduce the heat to low and simmer covered for 1½ hours or until the beans are tender. As the soup cooks, add more water as needed. Remove the ham hock when the meat is tender. Allow to cool and remove the meat. Set aside.

When the beans are tender, stir in the greens and cook for about 5 minutes, or until the greens are wilted. Add the reserved ham hock meat.

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Meanwhile just before ready to serve, heat the remaining 4 tablespoons of olive oil in a small saucepan. Add the remaining garlic and remaining rosemary and remove from heat.

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Ladle soup into bowls and drizzle with the hot garlic rosemary oil and sprinkle lightly with kosher salt. Great served with toasted crusty bread.

RAGOUT PEBRONATA (BRAISED PORK WITH RED PEPPERS) PROVENÇAL WITH SAVORY POLENTA

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Since fall is definitely on its way (I know this because the yellow jackets have surfaced and the annuals in my pots on the deck are looking very tired), I thought it might be time to post this recipe for a delicious Provençal ragout. Pebronata, which means “peppered up” by the way, is a glorious mélange of braised meat, white or red wine, red peppers, and tomatoes (with a few others ingredients thrown in for good measure). And of course, as with ragouts found anywhere around the world, there are as many recipes for pebronata as there are cooks. This is a pretty standard recipe and very easy to prepare.

Now granted, this is not a dish that is going to send your taste buds into fits of ecstasy. This is a hearty every day dish that has enough good flavors going for it as to be interesting, but benign enough that even your picky eaters may not turn up their noses! (In other words, your kids are probably going to like it too.) It’s basically just as much a comfort food as spaghetti and meatballs or macaroni and cheese, but just enough different as to make the job of cooking it a wonderful change from your usual entrée rotation. We love it. Serve with a side veggie or salad, and dinner is ready.

  • 3-4 T. olive oil
  • 2 lb. boneless lean pork shoulder, trimmed of all sinew and fat, cubed and dried with paper towels
  • kosher salt
  • freshly ground black pepper
  • 1 onion, chopped
  • 3 cloves garlic, finely chopped
  • 4 juniper berries, finely crushed
  • 2 T. flour
  • 1 c. dry white wine
  • 1 c. chicken stock
  • 28-oz. Italian chopped or crushed tomatoes
  • 1 tsp. chopped fresh thyme
  • 1 bay leaf
  • 2 large red peppers, deseeded and cut into strips
  • 2 T. chopped Italian parsley

Heat half the oil in a heavy covered oven proof pan. Sprinkle the pork cubes lightly with salt and pepper. Brown the pork in batches over medium high heat, removing to a plate when browned. Reduce the heat, add the remaining oil and the onion and cook for about 10 minutes, until transparent. Stir in the garlic and juniper berries and cook for a few seconds. Sprinkle in the flour, stir well and cook for 1-2 minutes. Add the wine, chicken stock, and tomatoes and stir over a medium heat until thickened. Return the meat and accumulated juices to the pot. Add the thyme, bay leaf, and adjust seasoning. Cover and bake in a pre-heated 325 degree oven for 45 minutes. Remove from oven and add a little water if the ragout seems too dry. Add the red pepper strips and parsley and bake for about 45 minutes more or until the pork is tender. Remove the bay leaf before serving over Savory Polenta. (see recipe below)

Note: Just like any other braised meat dish, always better the next day. So make ahead if you have the time.

SAVORY POLENTA

  • 2 T. olive oil
  • 3/4 c. finely chopped red onion
  • 1 tsp. kosher salt
  • freshly ground black pepper
  • 2 cloves garlic, finely minced
  • 1 qt. chicken stock
  • 1 c. coarse ground cornmeal
  • 3 T. butter
  • 2-oz. finely grated Parmesan

In a large, oven-proof covered saucepan heat the olive oil over medium heat. Add the onion, salt, and pepper; sauté until the onion begins to turn translucent, approximately 4 to 5 minutes. Reduce the heat and add the garlic. Sauté until the garlic releases its aroma, about 1 minute. Add the chicken stock and bring to a boil. Reduce heat a bit and gradually whisk in the cornmeal. Cover the pan and bake in a pre-heated 350 degree oven for 30 to 35 minutes, stirring every 10 minutes to prevent lumps. Once the polenta is creamy, remove from the oven and add the butter and Parmesan. Adjust seasoning.

 

FRENCH ONION SOUP (SOUPE A L’OIGNON)

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It has been my experience that the difference between mediocre onion soup and really good onion soup is in the time and care taken to cook the onions. For truly great onion soup, the onions must be slowly and gently caramelized. When the onions are allowed to reduce to this golden mushy mess, the soup tastes mellow and rich. If the onions aren’t allowed to caramelize properly, the soup tastes raw. (Not anything Julia would allow in her kitchen, that’s for sure!) Or so I’ve heard.

And no, I never did get to watch Julia on TV. I helped raise 4 kids and worked full time. So when I wasn’t working (outside the house) I was working (inside the house) or in the yard, which is also (outside the house), but you catch my drift. I was basically on duty 24/7! Did I have time to sit down and watch a TV cooking show? Are you smoking something I should know about? Of course I didn’t have time. I was just happy when the sheets were all clean after stripping all 5 beds! (Working mothers take our small victories where we can get them!) So my early experience with a cooking mentor was not Julia Child, it was Betty Crocker.

Most evenings Betty and I would cozy up together after all the children were in bed, and I had a spare 5 minutes to read by myself. And oh how I loved our time together. I could plan what I was going to cook the next evening in the peace and quiet of a home that until 30 minutes before had been a haven for hellions. (Not that my kids were always hellions, but they certainly had their moments.) But after they went to bed all freshly bathed and their young brains filled with a few adventures to ponder from the books I read to them, or the stories I invented for them (flying turtle stories), I could finally relax. That is, between more loads of laundry of course. And dream of a time when I could study cookbooks and recipes all day long if I so chose.

Well that day has come. (Actually that day came quite a few years ago.) But even 12 years later, it still feels just wonderful to awaken on my own without an alarm clock going off in my ear. And know that my computer is waiting for me with all its funny little blue lights excitedly flickering on and off in anticipation of our time together surfing the internet.

So next time you are in the mood to fix something you read about on the internet, give this delicious soup a try. Consider this recipe for a French classic dish a gift from another French “wannabe” classic. Me!

  • 2 T. butter
  • 2 T. extra virgin olive oil
  • 4 yellow onions thinly sliced (about 2 lbs.)
  • ½ tsp. sugar
  • 1 c. red wine
  • freshly ground black pepper, not too much
  • 1 tsp. fresh thyme leaves
  • 1 good sized or 2 small bay leaves
  • 3 T. flour
  • 8 c. beef broth or stock
  • 1 T. cognac, opt.
  • baguette slices
  • 1 whole garlic clove, peeled
  • 2 c. grated cheese (a combination of Parmesan and Gruyère is perfect)

Melt the butter in a large, heavy covered soup pot. Add the olive oil and onions and cook over medium low heat until the onions are caramelized and a lovely golden brown, about 45 minutes. Stir often. (The onions will really start to stick to the bottom of the pan when they are nearly done, so watch them very carefully.) Add the sugar about half way through the cooking process. Add the red wine, black pepper, thyme, and bay leaf. Cook until the wine is mostly evaporated. Add the flour and cook for about 3 minutes, stirring the whole time. Add the beef broth, bring to just under a boil, reduce the heat, cover the pot, and let simmer for about an hour. Adjust seasoning. (I usually remove the cover after about 30 minutes to let some of the liquid evaporate. Makes for a bit thicker soup.) And don’t worry if your beautiful golden brown onions turn back to the color of newly fallen snow as they simmer away. That is just the nature of these little darlings when confronted with a warm bath of beef stock. (I don’t like it either. I think they should stay the lovely golden brown I worked so hard to achieve! But alas, that is just not going to happen.)

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Meanwhile toast the baguette slices in a pre-heated 400 degree oven until a nice light golden brown. (Toast both sides.) While still hot, rub one side of the toast with the whole garlic clove. (The rough surface of the toasted bread will act as a grater and the garlic will melt into the bread.) Cover each slice with cheese and return to the oven. Bake until the cheese is melted, about 4 minutes.

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When ready to serve the soup, remove the bay leaf and stir in the cognac. You can either place a couple of baguette slices in each bowl before you serve the soup, or float them on top of the soup, or simply serve them on the side.