Category Archives: FRENCH CUISINE

COQ AU VIN

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Coq au Vin (literally rooster with wine) is traditionally made with a capon (a castrated domestic cock fattened for eating). Now, I don’t know about your local grocery store, but I can tell you for certain that the meat department manager at our local store would laugh hysterically if I asked him to please cut up a capon for me. After he got his laughter under control, he’d probably ask me if I’d also like a slice of Pâté de Foie Gras. And then he’d undoubtedly have another good laugh at my expense!

And truly, who’s to blame him. Grocery stores only carry what they know their customers want. (I learned that in Economics 101!) So if there is no demand for a product like capons, the store isn’t going to carry them. Simple as that!

Allow me to tell you a true story involving our local market and kale.

We were unable to locate kale on one of our first trips to the local IGA after we moved into our new home on Camano Island. Finally I asked a young man who worked in produce if they were out of kale or were we just blind? He looked at us as if we had just inquired about the locally grown pineapples we had heard about. He then politely asked us “what is this thing called kale”? (Obviously the kid was a jazz lover!) We told him and he assured us that the store did not carry any such product. We went on our merry way, a little flabbergasted, but aware that we weren’t in Bellevue any more. (I knew then how Dorothy felt when she realized she was no longer in Kansas.) A few minutes later, still in the store but several isles away from produce, the young man came running up to us carrying a nice looking head of kale. I said to him, oh, you do carry kale after all. He said, well no not really. It’s only used to go under platters in the deli case! I looked at Mr. C, he looked at me, and we both said at the same time, but can’t you sell us a bunch? He said he’d be right back, and headed back to the produce manager. We followed him and we got our kale. And ever since, kale has been available to one and all.

So the moral of this story is – if there is a product you need that your market doesn’t carry, talk to them about it. Several items over the years that I have inquired about have mysteriously appeared on the shelves next thing I knew. The other moral of this story – unless you live near an upscale market that carries capons, make this dish with plain old chicken. You’re the only one that need know that the dish rightly should then be called “Poulet au Vin”.

(And no, I’m not going to mention capons to our meat department manager. He’s already frustrated with me because I couldn’t understand why the store didn’t carry French garlic sausages or salt pork needed for a cassoulet I was about to prepare.) Oh well, I need to pick my battles carefully. And capons are not worth fighting over. Duck breasts, on the other hand, are worth going to the mat over. Wish me duck, I mean wish me luck on that one!

Stay tuned for my cassoulet recipe.

  • ¼ c. extra virgin olive oil
  • 1 (3-4) lb. whole chicken*
  • kosher salt
  • freshly ground black pepper
  • 1/3 c. flour
  • 4 oz. thick meaty bacon, cut into 1/3rd-inch pieces
  • 2 stalks celery, diced
  • 1 medium sized onion, diced
  • 2 carrots, chopped
  • 2 cloves garlic, minced
  • 1 lb. cremini or button mushrooms, quartered (actually half and half is great)
  • ¼ c. Cognac or brandy
  • 2 T. tomato paste
  • 1½ c. Gamay Beaujolais or Pinot Noir (from the Bourgogne (Burgundy) wine region in France)
  • 2 c. chicken stock or more as needed
  • 2 small bay leaves
  • 2 tsp. chopped fresh thyme
  • 4 oz. pearl onions (I use frozen)
  • 1 T. butter, room temperature, if needed
  • 1 T. flour, if needed
  • 2 T. chopped fresh parsley

*or 8 chicken pieces of your choice

Cut up the chicken. For this recipe use the legs, thighs, and breasts, each cut in half. Remove the skin and any excess fat. Reserve the back and wings for soup stock.

Pour the olive oil into a large, covered Dutch oven and bring to a medium-high heat. Pat the chicken pieces dry and sprinkle generously with salt and pepper. Place the flour in a zip lock bag, add the chicken, and shake until every piece is nicely floured. Carefully place the chicken in the hot oil. When the first side is a light golden brown, carefully flip and fry until it too is golden brown. Transfer the chicken pieces to a bowl and set aside.

Reduce the heat to medium and add the bacon. Fry the bacon until it is brown and crispy. Add the celery, onions, and carrots; cook until the veggies are starting to caramelize, about 10 minutes. Add the garlic and cook for 1 minute. Add the mushrooms and cook for 4 to 5 minutes. Remove the pot from the stove, add the Cognac, return pot to heat and stir until the Cognac has all but disappeared. Add the tomato paste, wine, chicken stock, bay leaves, and thyme; stir to combine. Adjust seasonings. Bring the mixture to a high simmer; reduce heat slightly and let burble uncovered for 10 minutes.

Add the legs and thighs; partially cover the pan; simmer for 20 minutes. After the legs and thighs have simmered for about 20 minutes, turn the pieces over and add the 4 breast pieces, plus any juices that have accumulated in the bowl. Check the level of liquid and add more chicken stock if the sauce appears dry. Partially cover the pan and simmer for another 15 minutes or until all the chicken pieces are thoroughly cooked.

Remove the chicken from the pan and discard the bay leaves. If the sauce is on the thin side, mash 1 tablespoon room temperature butter and 1 tablespoon flour together and gently stir into the sauce. Let burble at least 5 minutes. When the sauce is the perfect consistency, add the chicken pieces and pearl onions to the pot. Let simmer for 3-4 minutes. Adjust seasoning again and add parsley just before serving. Serve with egg noodles or mashed potatoes.

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FRENCH CHICKEN LIVER PÂTÉ

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There is just something sophisticated and decadent about a pâté. Even the word “pâté” sounds like something only the rich and famous would be able to afford. But alas, that is absolutely not the case with this recipe. This pâté is made with chicken livers. And yes, there is some shiitake mushroom action going on, and a bit of cognac for that extra special richness only a fine brandy can impart, but other than those two fairly pricey ingredients, the rest are pretty standard fare.

I particularly love this recipe, not only for the flavor, but because of the soft, smooth and creamy texture. And I know in some circles I would be considered a plebian. But I simply don’t like pâtés that have chunks of meat in them, even if the meat is smoked ham or duck confit. These are what I consider to be rough country pâtés. And when I look at them, even the ones that are wrapped in bacon or pancetta, all I can see is dog food. (Like I said – plebian!) But if truth be told, it’s not just the appearance factor that I resist, it’s the texture. I want a smooth texture reminiscent of Bavarian Meats braunschweiger. (And if you live in the Seattle area and don’t know about Bavarian Meats, shame on you! Get acquainted at your earliest convenience. They have a retail shop at the Pike Street Market.)

Anyway, back to pâté. I want a spread that can easily be smeared on bread and not fall off! And it must have a flavor that makes you want to eat the entire bowl. And this recipe has both of my mandatory requirements. It is beyond belief delicious and it stays firmly on bread even if it is slathered to an alarming thickness. (Guilty as charged.)

So do yourself and your friends a favor and give this tasty treat a try. And I realize that some people may never have been exposed to pâté. Or they may even be completely intimidated by chicken livers. Just don’t tell them what’s in the spread. Or if they persist, tell them it’s pureed chipmunk. And then when they look at you aghast, tell them you were just kidding. Of course you would not feed them darling little rodents! By then they will be so relieved that they will forget their earlier reservations and just eat the pâté. (We cooks sometimes have to go to great lengths to get our family and friends to try new foods.) But please, try new recipes at every opportunity. Remember, even guacamole was new to all of us at one time. And now, I personally can’t imagine life without this perfect dip. Can you?

FYI: picture to follow

  • 8 T. (1 stick) unsalted butter, room temperature, divided
  • ½ lb. shiitake mushrooms, stemmed and thinly sliced
  • 4 green onions, chopped
  • ¾ to 1 lb. chicken livers, trimmed of connective tissue and fat
  • ¼ c. Chardonnay
  • 1¼ tsp. kosher salt
  • freshly ground black pepper (about 4 grinds)
  • ½ tsp. dry mustard
  • ¼ tsp. freshly ground nutmeg
  • 1/8 tsp. ground cloves
  • 4-oz. cream cheese, room temperature
  • 2 T. Cognac
  • baguette slices and crackers

Melt 2 tablespoons of the butter in a large, heavy skillet. Add mushrooms. Sauté until tender and beginning to brown (about 15 minutes). Remove mushrooms to bowl of food processor, reserving about 9 slivers for garnish. Melt 2 more tablespoons butter in the pan and add the green onions. Sauté for two minutes. Add the chicken livers and sauté until the livers are barely done. (There should be just a tinge of pink remaining.) Add the wine, salt, pepper, dry mustard, nutmeg, and cloves. Simmer for one minute. Using a slotted spoon, remove livers to food processor (save liquid) and whirl until smooth. Carefully pour remaining liquid from the pan into the food processor and blend on high until mixture is very, very smooth. Add the cream cheese, cognac, and remaining 4 tablespoons of butter and whirl again. Taste and adjust seasonings. Transfer to a serving container, garnish with the reserved mushroom slices, place plastic wrap directly on top of pâté, refrigerate, and forget about the pâté for at least 3 days. (That’s the hard part of this recipe!) When ready to serve, bring to room temperature and serve with baguette slices and crackers. A nice bowl of cornichons on the side is a perfect accompaniment.

 

 

 

TAPENADE

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Tapenade is a spread consisting of very finely chopped olives, anchovies, and capers in olive oil. The name “tapenade” comes from the Provençal word for capers, tapenas. It is a very popular dish in the south of France and is most often eaten as an hors d’œuvre, spread on toasted crusty bread or baguette slices.

I first started making tapenade when I was in my early forties because it was easy to prepare and totally different from anything else I served. (And no, I have no idea where I learned about tapenade. The recipe wasn’t in my Betty Crocker cookbook, that’s for darn sure!) I just knew that it was delicious and everyone who tried it loved it! I also had no idea until I began researching for this post that some form of this amazing spread had been around since before the time of Christ.

According to Clifford A. Wright, award winning writer on all foods Italian and Mediterranean, “although capers are native to the Mediterranean, it is likely they were brought to Provence from Crete by the Phocaeans, Greeks from Asia Minor, who settled near Marseilles in the sixth century B.C. The caper plant was known as tapeneï in Provençal, and the flower bud, the part of the caper used for culinary purposes, was the tapeno, which were preserved in amphora (ancient vessels used for storage) filled with olive oil since vinegar was not used at that time. The capers became mushed together in the amphoras to form a kind of pâté of crushed tapeno, the ancestor of the modern tapenade. This is why it is today known by the word for caper rather than olives, which is actually, in volume, the greater constituent ingredient.”

So next time you want an absolutely delicious and different topping to serve with toast as an appetizer, get out your food processor and whip, or should I say pulse up a batch. And you are right! There are lovely little jars of this concoction in the fancy food deli section of almost every grocery store. But just for grins, look at the price before you just plop a jar in your cart. (You might want to have someone with you to help break the fall if you begin to faint.) Then consider how much it would cost to make your own. (And again, I know. Not everyone has capers, kalamata olives, and anchovies just lying around.) But they should! All three of these ingredients are wonderful in all kinds of dishes. Just do a Google search on any of these items and see what amazing new culinary delights are out there for you to try.

Now, for your final French history lesson today: According to Smithsonian Magazine, historians are now convinced that Marie Antoinette never said “let them eat cake”. That darling little statement was attributed to Maria Theresa, the Spanish princess who married Louis XIV more than a century before Marie Antoinette ever set foot in France. (And you thought you were only going to learn about food on my blog. Surprise!)

  • ¼ c. extra virgin olive oil
  • 6-8 anchovy fillets
  • 2 garlic cloves, roughly chopped
  • ½ tsp. dried rosemary
  • ½ tsp. dried oregano
  • freshly ground black pepper
  • 1½ c. pitted kalamata olives
  • 3 T. capers, washed and drained

Combine olive oil, anchovy fillets, garlic, rosemary, oregano, and pepper in a blender or food processor. Process until thoroughly pulverized. Add olives and capers and pulse until they are coarsely ground. (Do not over process. You do not want a paste.) Serve with toasted baguette slices.

CARAMELIZED ONION, GORGONZOLA CHEESE, AND WALNUT TART

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I have no idea why the combination of Gorgonzola cheese and walnuts is so delicious, but it is. And in this recipe, the thyme infused caramelized onions act as the perfect base for this dynamic duo. The creaminess of the cheese, the crunch of the walnuts, and of course the savory flavor of the onions absolutely sends your taste buds to their own special little happy place. (At least that’s what happens to my taste buds when I eat this tart.)

Now I realize that many tarts that call for Gorgonzola cheese and caramelized onions also include pears. But frankly, when you bake fairly mild flavored fruits like pears with strong flavored ingredients like Gorgonzola cheese and caramelized onions, the poor babies simply get lost and all but forgotten. The only thing that tends to remain is a very thin, kind of grainy and not too flavorful layer in an otherwise perfect tart. (And no, I do not hate pears. In fact, I like them very much. But you must admit they can become kind of grainy when they are cooked.) If I am going to eat pears, Gorgonzola cheese, and walnuts together, I am going to put them in a salad. In my opinion, pears have a much better chance of being appreciated when they are eaten raw. In fact, I feel so strongly about this, that I have included a bonus recipe at the bottom of this post that includes pears, Gorgonzola cheese, and walnuts. It is my friend Linda’s recipe for Pear and Blue Cheese (or Gorgonzola) Salad.

I hope you enjoy both of these wonderful recipes.

Disclaimer: the opinions expressed in this blog are those of mine alone. No one else, not even Mr. C, has even a remote chance of having his or her viewpoint taken into consideration, much less expressed!

  • 1½ c. unbleached all-purpose flour
  • ½ tsp. plus ¼ tsp. kosher salt
  • 1 tsp. sugar
  • ¼ tsp. baking powder
  • 1/3 c. plus 2 T. extra virgin olive oil, divided
  • ¼ c. milk
  • 2 onions, diced
  • freshly ground black pepper
  • 2 tsp. minced fresh thyme or ½ tsp. dried thyme
  • 2-3 oz. soft and creamy Gorgonzola cheese, crumbled (we love Black River Gorgonzola Cheese made in Wisconsin)
  • ¼ c. chopped walnuts or hazelnuts, lightly toasted

Whisk together the flour, the ½ teaspoon salt, sugar, and baking powder in a medium bowl. Whisk together the 1/3 cup olive oil and milk in another bowl, then pour over the dry ingredients. Stir with a fork until the dough is evenly moistened and no loose flour remains. Using your fingers, press the crust into a 7×11-inch glass baking dish, beginning with the bottom, then press a tiny bit up the sides of the pan. (Make sure there are no holes or cracks in the crust.) Bake for 12 minutes in a pre-heated 375 degree oven. Remove crust from oven and increase oven temperature to 425 degrees.

Please note: If you are making a tart recipe that does not call for baking the filling, bake for 20 minutes or until the crust is lightly golden and firm to the touch.

Meanwhile, heat the remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil in a large skillet and cook onions until caramelized, stirring frequently. (This step will take at least 30 minutes.) Season the onions with the remaining ¼ teaspoon salt, a small amount of pepper, and stir in the fresh thyme. Remove from heat and set aside to cool.

When ready to bake, spread the caramelized onions evenly over the crust. Add the crumbled gorgonzola, but not the walnuts. (You are going to add the walnuts after the tart has finished baking.)

Finish baking the tart in the pre-heated 425 degree oven for about 13-15 minutes or until the crust is a lovely light golden brown. Remove from the oven and scatter the walnut pieces over the top. Taking a table fork, gently press the walnut pieces into the cheese. (That way they won’t tend to fall off as quickly when people are devouring them!) Place pan on a rack to cool. When ready to serve, cut into desired sized pieces. Serve warm or at room temperature.

PEAR AND GORGONZOLA SALAD

  • 3 T. raspberry vinegar
  • 3 T. honey
  • 1/3 c. extra virgin olive oil
  • 8 very thin slices red onion
  • 12 c. coarsely chopped red leaf lettuce
  • 1 or 2 bosc pears, sliced
  • ¼ to 1/3 c. chopped toasted walnuts
  • ¼ to 1/3 c. crumbled Gorgonzola, blue or Roquefort cheese

Whisk vinegar, honey, and olive oil together in a large salad bowl until well emulsified. Add red onion slices, separated into rings. Just before serving, gently toss the lettuce, pears, walnuts, and crumbled cheese together with the dressing and onions.

RAGOUT PEBRONATA (BRAISED PORK WITH RED PEPPERS) PROVENÇAL WITH SAVORY POLENTA

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Since fall is definitely on its way (I know this because the yellow jackets have surfaced and the annuals in my pots on the deck are looking very tired), I thought it might be time to post this recipe for a delicious Provençal ragout. Pebronata, which means “peppered up” by the way, is a glorious mélange of braised meat, white or red wine, red peppers, and tomatoes (with a few others ingredients thrown in for good measure). And of course, as with ragouts found anywhere around the world, there are as many recipes for pebronata as there are cooks. This is a pretty standard recipe and very easy to prepare.

Now granted, this is not a dish that is going to send your taste buds into fits of ecstasy. This is a hearty every day dish that has enough good flavors going for it as to be interesting, but benign enough that even your picky eaters may not turn up their noses! (In other words, your kids are probably going to like it too.) It’s basically just as much a comfort food as spaghetti and meatballs or macaroni and cheese, but just enough different as to make the job of cooking it a wonderful change from your usual entrée rotation. We love it. Serve with a side veggie or salad, and dinner is ready.

  • 3-4 T. olive oil
  • 2 lb. boneless lean pork shoulder, trimmed of all sinew and fat, cubed and dried with paper towels
  • kosher salt
  • freshly ground black pepper
  • 1 onion, chopped
  • 3 cloves garlic, finely chopped
  • 4 juniper berries, finely crushed
  • 2 T. flour
  • 1 c. dry white wine
  • 1 c. chicken stock
  • 28-oz. Italian chopped or crushed tomatoes
  • 1 tsp. chopped fresh thyme
  • 1 bay leaf
  • 2 large red peppers, deseeded and cut into strips
  • 2 T. chopped Italian parsley

Heat half the oil in a heavy covered oven proof pan. Sprinkle the pork cubes lightly with salt and pepper. Brown the pork in batches over medium high heat, removing to a plate when browned. Reduce the heat, add the remaining oil and the onion and cook for about 10 minutes, until transparent. Stir in the garlic and juniper berries and cook for a few seconds. Sprinkle in the flour, stir well and cook for 1-2 minutes. Add the wine, chicken stock, and tomatoes and stir over a medium heat until thickened. Return the meat and accumulated juices to the pot. Add the thyme, bay leaf, and adjust seasoning. Cover and bake in a pre-heated 325 degree oven for 45 minutes. Remove from oven and add a little water if the ragout seems too dry. Add the red pepper strips and parsley and bake for about 45 minutes more or until the pork is tender. Remove the bay leaf before serving over Savory Polenta. (see recipe below)

Note: Just like any other braised meat dish, always better the next day. So make ahead if you have the time.

SAVORY POLENTA

  • 2 T. olive oil
  • 3/4 c. finely chopped red onion
  • 1 tsp. kosher salt
  • freshly ground black pepper
  • 2 cloves garlic, finely minced
  • 1 qt. chicken stock
  • 1 c. coarse ground cornmeal
  • 3 T. butter
  • 2-oz. finely grated Parmesan

In a large, oven-proof covered saucepan heat the olive oil over medium heat. Add the onion, salt, and pepper; sauté until the onion begins to turn translucent, approximately 4 to 5 minutes. Reduce the heat and add the garlic. Sauté until the garlic releases its aroma, about 1 minute. Add the chicken stock and bring to a boil. Reduce heat a bit and gradually whisk in the cornmeal. Cover the pan and bake in a pre-heated 350 degree oven for 30 to 35 minutes, stirring every 10 minutes to prevent lumps. Once the polenta is creamy, remove from the oven and add the butter and Parmesan. Adjust seasoning.

 

EASY CARAMELIZED ONION, ANCHOVY, AND KALAMATA OLIVE TART (PISSALADIÈRE)

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Pissaladière is an absolute favorite of mine. (Well of course it is; it’s French!) And I have been making it now for about 30 years. It is one of my favorite appetizers to serve with cocktails, especially when I have a fairly sophisticated crowd. (It takes a certain amount of savoir-faire to look an anchovy in the eye, especially when it is in the loving company of other strong flavored ingredients like capers and kalamata olives.)

But there is absolutely nothing not to love about this tart. And the best part; the crust is as easy to prepare as the topping. I actually didn’t post this recipe before because I wanted to find a replacement for the crust in my original recipe. And the reason, (let’s see, how do I put this politely) the original crust was an absolute pain in the – – – to prepare! (Out of the goodness of my heart, I’ve provided you with the original crust recipe below so that you can appreciate why I took the effort to make the preparation of this dish easier for you! Well OK, for me too!)

Regardless of the reason, you are going to love how easy and quick this whole dish comes together. And your family and friends are going to think you a kitchen Goddess or God when you present them with a piece of this heaven in a bite. Bon Appétit

  • 1½ c. unbleached all-purpose flour
  • ½ tsp. salt
  • 1 tsp. sugar
  • ¼ tsp. baking powder
  • 1/3 c. plus 3 T. extra virgin olive oil, divided
  • ¼ c. milk
  • 3 medium onions, diced
  • freshly ground black pepper
  • 3 cloves garlic, minced
  • 1 bay leaf
  • 1 tsp. chopped fresh thyme
  • 1 T. washed and drained capers
  • 6-8 anchovies or 1 small tin
  • 12-15 pitted kalamata olives, cut in quarters if large, half if not so large

Whisk together the flour, salt, sugar, and baking powder in a medium bowl. Whisk together the 1/3 cup olive oil and milk in another bowl, then pour over the dry ingredients. Stir with a fork until the dough is evenly moistened and no loose flour remains. Using your fingers, press the crust into a 7×11-inch glass baking dish, beginning with the bottom, then press a tiny bit up the sides of the pan. (Make sure there are no holes or cracks in the crust.) Bake for 12 minutes in a pre-heated 375 degree oven. Remove crust from oven and increase oven temperature to 425 degrees.

Meanwhile, heat the remaining 3 tablespoons olive oil in a large skillet and cook onions over medium low heat until caramelized, stirring frequently. (This step will take at least 30 minutes.) Season with just a small amount of pepper. Add the garlic, bay leaf, thyme, and capers. Cook for another minute or until garlic releases aroma. Remove from heat. Discard bay leaf.

When ready to bake, spread the onion mixture evenly over the partially baked crust. Arrange anchovy* pieces and olives evenly on top of the onion mixture. Finish baking in the pre-heated 425 degree oven until crust is crisp and golden, about 20 minutes. (Don’t under-bake.) Remove from oven and place on a rack to cool. When ready to serve, cut into small pieces. Serve slightly warm or at room temperature. Pissaladière can also be served as a first course. Just cut the pieces a bit larger.

*If the anchovies are kind of mushy when you open the can, you can stir them into the onion mixture along with the garlic, bay leaf, etc. until they basically melt into the onions. You can also use a little bit of the olive oil in the can or jar to add additional anchovy flavor. (That’s what I usually do, but then I LOVE anchovies!)

My original Pissaladièr crust recipe:

  • 1¼ c. unbleached all-purpose flour
  • ½ tsp. salt
  • ¼ c. (½ stick) chilled butter cut into ½ inch cubes
  • 2 T. extra virgin olive oil
  • cold water

Mix flour and salt in processor. Add butter and olive oil. Using on/off turns, process until mixture resembles coarse meal. Using on/off turns, mix in enough water 1 tablespoon at a time to form moist clumps. Gather dough into ball; flatten into disk. Wrap in plastic and chill at least 2 hours. Allow to sit at room temperature for at least 30 minutes before rolling out on a floured surface to 11-inch round or square. Transfer dough to a lightly oiled baking sheet. Don’t worry if the dough doesn’t transfer without breaking into pieces. Just piece it back together on the baking sheet and no one will be the wiser! (And yes, the crust broke apart every time I made it!) Crimp edges of dough to form stand-up border. Spread onion topping evenly over dough. Arrange anchovy pieces and olives evenly on top of the onion mixture. Bake in a pre-heated 425 degree oven until the crust is crisp and golden, about 30 minutes. Transfer to platter and serve.

Note: If you choose to use this recipe, you will need to about double the amount of onions, anchovies, and kalamata olives called for in the topping recipe above.

 

 

SOFT FRENCH BAGUETTES

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As everyone knows, bread is the staff of life. And no group of people are in touch with their inner “must have bread” like the French. One of the best things about visiting France is watching people go about their business snacking on big old chunks of freshly baked baguettes. They rip off a piece and somehow manage to get at least the majority of the bread in their mouths. They carry the baguettes in bags, back packs, the little baskets on the front of their bicycles, anywhere their hands can reach with the least amount of effort. It’s amazing to watch how contorted their bodies can become when their mission is to eat the bread and maneuver through traffic at the same time. Boggles my mind, I’ll tell you that! And because of that, French bread has a special place in my heart. (Well that, and the fact that I am a sucker for good bread!)

This recipe, unlike most of the baguettes you see being consumed on the run, (so to speak), produces a soft and tender loaf of bread. The crust and crumb (inner portion) are both soft, with just enough “chew” to be interesting. And the preparation could not be easier or the final result more delicious. (And I know I have already given you plenty of recipes for bread. But buying good bread is just ridiculously expensive. And when you consider that basic bread is just yeast, water, sometimes a little something sweet to encourage the yeast, salt, and flour; well highway robbery immediately springs to mind!)

So I’m not going to bug you this posting about baking your own bread. I’m just going to remind you that there are no preservatives in home baked bread. There isn’t too much salt or sugar. And, it only costs pennies to produce. (That’s as close as I can come to “not bugging” you. And yes, it was very hard to show even that much restraint. But then, I’m not your mother! Or if I am, please let me take this opportunity to tell you once again how much your mamma loves you.)

  • 1½ c. warm water
  • 2 pkgs. or a scant 2 T. active dry yeast
  • 2 T. honey
  • 3½ to 4 c. unbleached all-purpose flour
  • 2 tsp. kosher salt
  • olive oil, for greasing the bowl
  • cornmeal, for baking pan

Combine the water, yeast, and honey in a large mixing bowl, preferably the bowl from your stand mixer. Let proof for about 5 minutes or until the mixture looks foamy. Add about half of the flour and the salt and mix until all of the flour is incorporated. Slowly add enough remaining flour to make a dough that is not too wet or sticky. Knead for about 4 minutes. Form the dough into a ball and pour a small amount of olive oil down the side of the bowl. Using your hands, lift the dough from the bottom of the bowl and coat with the oil. Cover the bowl with a tea towel and let rest in a draft free area until doubled in size, 25 to 30 minutes. Meanwhile, lightly sprinkle a baking sheet with cornmeal and set aside.

After the dough has doubled in size, punch down and divide in half. Using your hands, form each half into an elongated, 12-14 inch loaf and place on the prepared pan. (To shape the dough, I hold the dough with one hand and using the other hand I squeeze the dough up and down its length until I have the desired size I need. Then I finesse it a bit once I have it on the pan. A little additional shaping here and there until it is roughly symmetrical.)

Once the baguettes are on the baking sheet, make diagonal cuts along the top at about 1-inch intervals. Cover the baguettes with the tea towel again, and let double in size. This takes about 30 minutes. Meanwhile, place a pan of water on the bottom rack of your oven. Set the other rack in the middle of the oven. Pre-heat the oven to 450 degrees. When your bread has doubled for the second time, remove the towel and place the pan in the pre-heated oven. Bake for about 15-20 minutes or until the crusts are a lovely golden brown and the loaves sound hollow when you thump them with your knuckles. Allow to cool before they are devoured.

FRENCH ONION SOUP (SOUPE A L’OIGNON)

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It has been my experience that the difference between mediocre onion soup and really good onion soup is in the time and care taken to cook the onions. For truly great onion soup, the onions must be slowly and gently caramelized. When the onions are allowed to reduce to this golden mushy mess, the soup tastes mellow and rich. If the onions aren’t allowed to caramelize properly, the soup tastes raw. (Not anything Julia would allow in her kitchen, that’s for sure!) Or so I’ve heard.

And no, I never did get to watch Julia on TV. I helped raise 4 kids and worked full time. So when I wasn’t working (outside the house) I was working (inside the house) or in the yard, which is also (outside the house), but you catch my drift. I was basically on duty 24/7! Did I have time to sit down and watch a TV cooking show? Are you smoking something I should know about? Of course I didn’t have time. I was just happy when the sheets were all clean after stripping all 5 beds! (Working mothers take our small victories where we can get them!) So my early experience with a cooking mentor was not Julia Child, it was Betty Crocker.

Most evenings Betty and I would cozy up together after all the children were in bed, and I had a spare 5 minutes to read by myself. And oh how I loved our time together. I could plan what I was going to cook the next evening in the peace and quiet of a home that until 30 minutes before had been a haven for hellions. (Not that my kids were always hellions, but they certainly had their moments.) But after they went to bed all freshly bathed and their young brains filled with a few adventures to ponder from the books I read to them, or the stories I invented for them (flying turtle stories), I could finally relax. That is, between more loads of laundry of course. And dream of a time when I could study cookbooks and recipes all day long if I so chose.

Well that day has come. (Actually that day came quite a few years ago.) But even 12 years later, it still feels just wonderful to awaken on my own without an alarm clock going off in my ear. And know that my computer is waiting for me with all its funny little blue lights excitedly flickering on and off in anticipation of our time together surfing the internet.

So next time you are in the mood to fix something you read about on the internet, give this delicious soup a try. Consider this recipe for a French classic dish a gift from another French “wannabe” classic. Me!

  • 2 T. butter
  • 2 T. extra virgin olive oil
  • 4 yellow onions thinly sliced (about 2 lbs.)
  • ½ tsp. sugar
  • 1 c. red wine
  • freshly ground black pepper, not too much
  • 1 tsp. fresh thyme leaves
  • 1 good sized or 2 small bay leaves
  • 3 T. flour
  • 8 c. beef broth or stock
  • 1 T. cognac, opt.
  • baguette slices
  • 1 whole garlic clove, peeled
  • 2 c. grated cheese (a combination of Parmesan and Gruyère is perfect)

Melt the butter in a large, heavy covered soup pot. Add the olive oil and onions and cook over medium low heat until the onions are caramelized and a lovely golden brown, about 45 minutes. Stir often. (The onions will really start to stick to the bottom of the pan when they are nearly done, so watch them very carefully.) Add the sugar about half way through the cooking process. Add the red wine, black pepper, thyme, and bay leaf. Cook until the wine is mostly evaporated. Add the flour and cook for about 3 minutes, stirring the whole time. Add the beef broth, bring to just under a boil, reduce the heat, cover the pot, and let simmer for about an hour. Adjust seasoning. (I usually remove the cover after about 30 minutes to let some of the liquid evaporate. Makes for a bit thicker soup.) And don’t worry if your beautiful golden brown onions turn back to the color of newly fallen snow as they simmer away. That is just the nature of these little darlings when confronted with a warm bath of beef stock. (I don’t like it either. I think they should stay the lovely golden brown I worked so hard to achieve! But alas, that is just not going to happen.)

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Meanwhile toast the baguette slices in a pre-heated 400 degree oven until a nice light golden brown. (Toast both sides.) While still hot, rub one side of the toast with the whole garlic clove. (The rough surface of the toasted bread will act as a grater and the garlic will melt into the bread.) Cover each slice with cheese and return to the oven. Bake until the cheese is melted, about 4 minutes.

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When ready to serve the soup, remove the bay leaf and stir in the cognac. You can either place a couple of baguette slices in each bowl before you serve the soup, or float them on top of the soup, or simply serve them on the side.

 

 

 

 

CHOCOLATE MOUSSE WITH COINTREAU (MOUSSE AU CHOCOLAT AVEC COINTREAU)

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I don’t care who you are, or where you have roamed over God’s green earth, there is still one dish eaten at the end of a meal that even the most sophisticated sweets connoisseur adores. And that my dear friend is chocolate mousse. And if home cooks realized how terribly easy it is to prepare, more people would be enjoying it on a more frequent basis.

And this recipe from the Woodland Bakery blog is easy and the taste and consistency are simply perfection. The mousse isn’t too sweet (only 2 tablespoons of sugar), it’s amazingly light and fluffy, and the chocolate flavor, although intense, is not overpowering. And for people like myself who mainly only like milk chocolate, that’s saying a lot!

I discovered this recipe when I went in search of a mousse that didn’t contain eggs. (My old standby recipe contains whole uncooked eggs.) And although I love that recipe, I wanted to avoid the use of eggs if possible. (And yes, this recipe does include egg whites.) But as I was to learn, most recipes worth their chocolate contain eggs. So I decided to give this recipe a try, egg whites and all. (I quickly realized I could substitute Egg Beaters Just Whites, which are pasteurized by the way, for the kind of egg whites that come in a handy, roughly ellipsoid shaped calcium carbonate container.)

So next time you want to impress the pickles out of your family and friends, and not coincidentally remind them how lucky they are to have you cooking for them, serve this amazing mousse for dessert some evening. It’s just so delicious. And it can be changed up with just the use of a different alcohol as flavoring. Or you can add powdered espresso for a hint of coffee flavor. (Coffee always brings out the best in chocolate.) Or you want a little crunch to offset the soft and silky consistency of this mousse? Add some sliced almonds on top of an amaretto flavored mousse.

I know we all grew up hearing “don’t play with your food”! Well I am here to advocate playing with your food every opportunity you get. And what better fun than dessert! Enjoy!

  • ¼ tsp. cream of tartar
  • 2 T. sugar
  • 5 egg whites or equivalent in Egg Beaters Just Whites*
  • 3 c. heavy cream, divided
  • 1 lb. good semi sweet chocolate
  • ½ c. hot water
  • 1 T. Cointreau or liqueur of choice (If you don’t want to use liqueur add another tablespoon of hot water)
  • 2 T. powdered sugar
  • 1 tsp. Cointreau or liqueur of choice, opt.
  • grated orange rind, garnish, opt.

In a small bowl rub the cream of tartar into the granulated sugar to combine well. In a mixing bowl with the whisk attachment whip the egg whites until foamy. Sprinkle in the sugar mixture very slowly. (Do not dump all the sugar at once. You will deflate your egg whites.) Continue whipping until you reach medium-firm peaks, but don’t over-whip to the point of “styrofoam”. Set aside.

In a separate mixer bowl, whip 2 cups of the heavy cream to medium-firm peaks. Again be sure not to over-whip your cream. Set aside.

Melt the chocolate in a large glass bowl. (I use my microwave.) When the chocolate is melted, add the hot water all at once, whisking vigorously to incorporate the water into the chocolate. (The first time I made this mousse, I was worried that the water would thin out the chocolate too much. To the contrary, the chocolate actually became thicker.) Whisk in the 1 tablespoon of liqueur. Take a small portion of the egg whites and fold them into the chocolate mixture. Then fold in the remainder of the whites.

Next do the same thing with a small amount of the whipped cream, lightening and aerating the mixture by folding it through. Gently fold in the remainder of the whipped cream. (Some small streaks of chocolate or whipped cream may remain. That’s just fine.) Transfer mousse to a nice serving bowl** and cover tightly with plastic wrap.

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Refrigerate overnight or for up to 3 days. When ready to serve, beat the remaining 1 cup heavy cream to stiff peaks. Add the powdered sugar and remaining 1 teaspoon Cointreau. Spoon mousse into individual dishes and top with a dollop of whipped cream and a tiny bit of grated orange rind as garnish. Yields 2 quarts

*When I make this mousse for family and friends, I use regular egg whites. But if I am fixing mousse for a group of people I don’t know (like some of our JazzVox guests), I use Egg Beaters Just Whites because the whites are pasteurized. (Never know if one of our guests might be pregnant or fearful of raw eggs.)

**or individual bowls

 

FRENCH MASHED POTATOES WITH GRUYÈRE AND MOZZARELLA CHEESE (ALIGOT)

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So, who among us doesn’t adore mashed potatoes? I personally don’t know one person who doesn’t love them. After all, what’s not to love? They are creamy and full of butter, and well, need I say more? (It’s the butter that gets you every time!)

But this amazing preparation for a simple Solanum tuberosum (Yukon Gold potato) is just over the top delicious. It simply takes the whole “mashed potatoes” as everyone’s favorite side dish to a whole new level of decadence.

Now granted, these mashed potatoes would not be good with turkey gravy. Or any gravy, for that matter. And the consistency is very different from most mashed potatoes because of the addition of cheese. But wait till you wrap your lips around these potatoes. If you aren’t moaning with pleasure, you may not still be alive!

Speaking of which, I’m going to tell you a story about a woman and her favorite toast (as in cheers, cin-cin, salute) that I recently read in her obituary. (And yes I do read the obituaries every day just to make sure I haven’t inadvertently passed over without my knowledge.)

This supposedly old Irish toast was provided at the bottom of a long testimony to how much the woman had loved life. And of course, to how much she was going to be missed by everyone who knew her. And if this toast is any indication of how this fun and obviously classy lady had lived her life, the entire world should be mourning her loss! And apparently she only started offering up this toast after she turned ninety. But then, by the time you reach 90, everyone pretty much lets you say or do whatever you darn well please anyway. (Like the age thing ever stopped any of my friends from doing or saying anything they darn well pleased!)

But on to the toast that I too plan to use when I am with good friends and about to partake of a lovely little drinky poo. (And no, I’m not going to wait until I’m 90 to offer up these sage words when I lift a glass. Life is simply too short for that much restraint!)

Here’s to those who love us!

And for those who don’t love us,

May God turn their hearts.

And if He cannot turn their hearts,

May He turn their ankles,

So we may know them by their limping!

  • 2 lbs. Yukon gold potatoes (about 4-6), peeled and diced into ½-1inch chunks
  • 3 T. unsalted butter
  • 2-3 cloves garlic, grated
  • 1 tsp. kosher salt
  • freshly ground black pepper
  • about 1 c. whole milk, warmed
  • 4 oz. mozzarella cheese, grated
  • 4 oz. Gruyère cheese, grated

Cover the potatoes with cold water in a medium sized pot. Bring to a boil, salt the water, reduce heat and cook until the potatoes are fork tender, about 15-20 minutes. Drain the potatoes and return them to the pot. Add the butter, grated garlic, salt, pepper and ½ cup of the warm milk to the potatoes. Beat away until the potatoes are creamy and smooth with either a hand mixture or potato masher. Add additional milk as needed. Return the pot to the stove and turn the burner on low. Mix in the cheeses until completely melted and incorporated, stirring frequently. Adjust seasonings. Serve immediately or cover the pot and hold in a warm oven.