PREFACE TO ALL 5 (really 4½) WEEKS OF OUR GREEK ADVENTURE
Just back from our last trip to the Cradle of Civilization – GREECE. As with every trip we take, I have documented our adventure with words and provided pictures we took along the way. And as I put my feelings into words, I don’t hold back on how I perceive a place or situation. So, if you want a glowing description of everything there is to see, eat, and experience in Greece, stop now, and find yourself a glossy brochure. Because even as I reviewed what I wrote before presenting it to you, I didn’t rewrite or change my very personal thoughts about what I was feeling or thinking at the time about any given aspect of our holiday. So, please know this is not just a glowing report of our travels. It’s what I experienced – wonderful, not so wonderful, or indifferent.
Plus, if you have ever read anything I have previously written, you know I tend to be verbose. So, come along for the ride if you want. But consider yourself warned. I tend to get caught up on a subject and assume you too would enjoy the history behind “whatever” as much as I do. So, feel free to skip ahead and just look at the pictures. But remember, context will always give you a more rounded picture of what we enjoyed or failed to appreciate along the way.
Now, if you have read up to this point, know that this post is only for week 3 of our trip. There will be 4 more opportunities to become bored stiff to follow. And all will contain this same preface. So, having read this explanation once, and you care to read more about Greece, you can skip to the meat of each post by jumping directly to Greece 2023 – Week 1, 2, 4, and 5.
So, without further ado, I hope you enjoy reading about our time in Greece. But remember, this is just one person’s view of a country. And that person, who once was an intrepid traveler, is now a 79-year-old woman whose nerves of steel have diminished to nerves so cowardly as to be non-existent! But one who still loves to travel. Go figure! And as always, wishes you peace and love.
Sunday, September 24, 2023 – Ippola Boutique Hotel, in the tiny village of Mezapos on the Mani Peninsula (still in the Peloponnese Region)
Looking down on our own private beach.
Looking back at the hotel from across the street.
Me sunning myself on our terrace.
Our very own canon right on our terrace. Now how many times does that happen?
A beautiful sunset from our terrace.
After a good night’s sleep, we both woke up about 7:30 am. It was “move to a new hotel day”. So, we wanted to get a reasonably early start. Because frankly, Google maps has no idea how long it is going to take to drive from one location to another. Oh, they know the number of kilometers, but they don’t take into consideration that you can’t drive 100k on hair pin turns. So, we have learned to take their estimated time to drive from point “a” to point “b”, and triple, if not quadruple it. (That may be a bit of an exaggeration, but you catch my drift.)
So, after another wonderful buffet breakfast, we lugged our luggage to POI (our name for our rental car) because POI are the letters that start our license plate combination of letters and numbers. And we like this car about as much as the poi (mashed taro root) we were encouraged to at least try when we were in Hawaii. Both “poi” are very much overrated in our humble opinion!
Anyway, the drive today was wonderful. Very interesting scenery and it still amazes me that so much of the land is so mountainous. Not just hilly, but sheer mountain majesty. With little villages tucked hither and yon to bring a bit of a break to the natural splendor.
Then back down to the coast for sights like this ferry. (This picture is for you Suzie E.)
But even though we tried very, very hard, we found our hotel with only a couple of wrong turns. And for being in the middle of nowhere, it is a beautiful establishment. And like our room in Monemvasia, our room here has all the modern accoutrements you could ever wish for. But it too is cave like and very dark inside. And the lighting is terrible. But we will make do. We won’t be spending that much time inside, but the lighting is hardly adequate for reading or writing. Thankfully we both have Kindles, so the screens offer enough light to read. But typing on our computer is not fun. And of course, it doesn’t help that I am a horrible typist to begin with. But being unable to see the keys clearly doesn’t help! Oh well, the joys of travel. At least my cold seems to have gone away. For which I am most grateful. And I know Andy can sleep a lot better without me hacking all night.
After we got checked into our room (another room at the very top of the hotel) we decided to check out the beach so that Andy could have a bit of a swim. I waded in the water and tomorrow I will probably join him for a late afternoon swim. I wanted to check out the beach first before I got in the water. From our room, it’s a steep road down to the beach. And there is no sand. Just small to medium sized rocks and on a slope. So, not a good beach for someone whose balance is not what it used to be. But I want to go swimming, so I’m going to make it happen tomorrow. For now, I’m a happy camper in our air-conditioned cave. So, enough for now. I have a mystery to help solve. (Haven’t I always! Then it was off to dinner at our hotel.
We are in such a small village I’m not even sure there is another restaurant available to us without getting in our car. And believe me when I say I am not looking forward to driving out of this village. The road in and out is steep and very narrow. And with a standard transmission, every hill climb leaves me quaking. I’m not usually afraid of hills, and over the years we have driven up and down some very dicey roads. But with our powerless rental car and it being a manual transmission, my nerves may never be the same. But it is what it is. And Andy is a good driver. I am, however, not a good passenger. At least not when we are driving up a steep hill where there is hardly any room to pull over. But enough about my nervous condition.
We decided that at least for tonight, we would give our hotel restaurant a try. And OMG, I don’t know where their chef learned to cook, but my pressed lamb patty over feta mashed potatoes was absolutely delicious. And Andy’s fresh ravioli stuffed with ricotta, spinach, fresh dill, and lemon was amazing. And for the first time, there was not too much food. Just a perfect amount for our senior appetites.
Then it was back to our deck to watch the sun set. Then inside to read until we could no longer keep our eyes open.
View back at the small village of Mezapos from the next hill over.
Monday, September 25, 2023
Slept very well despite the heat rash or whatever that has magically appeared on the back of my legs from behind my knees to my butt. I think sitting in our car and it being hot despite the air conditioning is causing the rash. Either that, or sand fleas or some other critters have found me a tasty treat. Whichever, it itches! Not enough to drive me crazy yet, but it could well become the thing that puts me over the edge. But please don’t get me wrong. I am very much enjoying our holiday. However, after discussing the situation with Andy, we might be better off at this stage of our life, to get to know Rick Steves better. Although, we would never get to stay in small hotels and guest houses like we have experienced so far on our trip. And these off-the-beaten-track accommodations are the kind of places we like the best. So, if we live through this adventure, we may perhaps give it one more try. But this is not the time or place to make that decision. It’s time to go to breakfast.
And once again, there are more savory dishes, pastries, fruits, veggies, breads, etc. than we could ever eat. And fresh orange juice and the best Americano I have had since Camano Island.
Then back to our room for me to catch up on this travel report and Andy to plot out any adventures that might interest us. And what an adventure he came up with. Now, one thing I have discovered about myself that seems to have come upon me recently, is that I have developed a grand and formidable case of acrophobia. And when Dr. Andy identified my condition from my symptoms this afternoon, I agreed he had me pegged correctly. For those of you like me, who until today had no idea what acrophobia was, allow me to elucidate. Acrophobia is a mental health condition in which the individual experiences an intense fear of heights. It’s a type of anxiety disorder. A person with acrophobia experiences intense fear and anxiety when they think of tall heights or are positioned at a significant height.
On the way to “Land’s End”. Not at the end because it gets worse the further along you go. At least on this part, we could stop and take a picture. Towards the end of the road – no way in hell was I going to get out of the car!
Even further away from “Land’s End”. Still some houses, but already the roads are scary as hell!
Now something you should know is that never in my life have high places caused me anything but delight. But today, on our drive to the southernmost tip of the Mani Peninsula, and not coincidentally, the southernmost tip of Greece itself, have I ever been so scared.
We started from our hotel in Mezapoz, up and out of this beach town to the main road. And I use the term “main road” very loosely. Then we decided to go north a bit and check out the location of the Diros Cave tour we would be taking tomorrow. (More to follow about the cave.) Then north a bit more to the outskirts of Areopoli. And that’s where the fun began.
We have driven some exciting roads in the past. In lots of different countries. But either I am turning into a wuss, or we have suddenly become more adventurous. And when I say we, I really mean Andy has become more adventurous. Because today, the man was fearless. Never to the point of putting us in danger. But enough for me to be so anxious I could hardly breathe. (Are we having fun yet?) And you must understand. These are not 2 lane roads. In places there’s not even what you would call one lane. And never flat. Always either up or down and hairpin turns. WITH NO BLOODY GUARD RAILS! (How can these people live like this?) So, when he turned off the “main” road to go down to what is lovingly called “Land’s End”, I almost lost it. Needless to say, I wasn’t even talking to Andy by the time we got back to the “main road”. He asked me if I was better now, and my answer was an adamant NO! But we made it back to our little village and our hotel in one piece. And I am once again speaking to the driver. But I may never be the same again!
This delightful drive took us through what could only be called a loop. Would I ever go on this “loop” again? Not bloody likely. But we did see some amazing things. Like the little church in the town of Lagia where we stopped for lunch.
The outside of the church.
The inside with its beautiful frescos.
On the north side of the Village Church is what appears to be the square base of a tower, in which resides an unusually large bell. The church contained some wonderful frescos, and the door was wide open and unattended. The church also had a tall, marble campanile, which contained several pieces of old marble, but like most of the churches, this was a more recent addition. The octagonal dome had arched facets with intricate brickwork decorations. The door of the church had a wonderful carved lintel. Walking round the outside of the church, you couldn’t fail to notice the massive rectangular blocks of marble, interspersed with sandstone blocks, with which the walls had been constructed. The intricate cloisonné brickwork decorations were also exceptional. An absolutely amazing find.
So, even though today’s adventure scared the pickles out of me, I’m very glad to have seen the sights we saw today. And hopefully some of the pictures we took will give you a glimpse of the beauty we witnessed in person.
Tuesday, September 26, 2023
Today was our day to go to the Vlychada Cave in Diros Bay. So, after another lovely buffet breakfast, we were on our way by about 9:30 am.
Vlychada Cave in Diros is one of the most beautiful caves in the world and is located on the west coast of the Laconian Peninsula, in Diros Bay. (And the main reason we chose to visit this out of the way part of Greece to visit.)
Its existence was known to the locals since around 1900, but exploration started in 1949 when the founders of the Hellenic Speleological Society were the first to conduct a systematic exploration. By 1960, 1,600 meters had been explored and mapped. Today this number has increased to 14,700 meters.
The cave began to form hundreds of thousands of years ago. The stalactites and stalagmites that are now underwater were formed when the surface of the sea was far below its current level. Under the sparse Mani landscape, nature has patiently and artistically sculpted a miracle beyond imagination – white stalactites and stalagmites, impressive waterfalls (in the Spring) and glittering crystals adorn every corner, creating an incomparable spectacle that takes your breath away!
Referred to as only the Diros Cave, the cave is perhaps the most important natural site in Greece. The Paleolithic and Neolithic artifacts found here, many of which are on display in the museum, mean that the cave was one of the earliest inhabited places in Greece. Some say that the cave goes even further than explored so far. Maybe as far as Mount Tagetos and Sparta.
Located at the top of the Mani Peninsula between the town of Pirgos Dirou and Areopolis, the entrance is a few meters above the sea and a beautiful stone beach. When you arrive at the cave you buy a 10 euro per person ticket at the booth and continue driving down to the parking lot just outside the entrance.
When you enter the cave, you walk down a stairway to an underground lake where there are small, maximum 7 people including the guide, boats waiting. You are given a life-vest, take your assigned seat (not an easy feat), and then the boat guide uses a pole to journey us through the caverns and tunnels, which are eerily lit and adorned with stalactites and stalagmites. You pass through many sections just wide enough to allow the boat, and where you must duck your head. Some areas are fairly large subterranean rooms where you can hear the voices of people on other boats in the distance. The air is a comfortable seventy degrees at any time of the year, so my bringing a light jacket was not necessary.
Even though Andy took a lot of pictures, the pictures don’t do justice to the magnificence of this natural wonder. It is truly a sight best seen firsthand. But I am going to post the pictures anyway!
There was even a dragon in the cave while we were on the walking part of our tour.
Then it was back to our room for me to do some laundry, write about our cave adventure, and Andy to take the car to the end of the road our hotel is on. For me, yesterday’s adventure to Land’s End was so terrifying, I firmly said “no thank you” to Andy when he asked me if I would like to go along. I have trepidations, and yesterday firmly reminded me when something should simply remain off limits for me.
After Andy returned from his solo adventure, that he promptly told me was not actually that exciting, and after a quick shower for him, we decided to visit the nearby village of Areopoli.
After finding a place to park, we walked a bit and decided that lunch would be nice. And I must say, this little restaurant made the best pork gyro I have had so far. Perfectly seasoned meat, the tzatziki was very flavorful, and the pita soft and tender. Andy had a kebab filled gyro and his choice was also delicious. After our simple lunch we walked around the pretty village for a bit before heading for our car and the return trip to our own tiny little village.
A pretty little church in Areopoli.
Then do some more laundry and read out on our balcony deck. Life just doesn’t get much better than this. Especially because we have a cloud covering so sitting outside is pleasant. Rain and possible thunder showers are in the forecast, so we might have an exciting night. But I’m sure the residents of this area would welcome some rain. Not too much rain, but enough to settle the dust and water the flora and fauna. Speaking of fauna – there are cats everywhere in Greece. Big city or tiny village – makes no difference. And although they aren’t fat kitties, they all look reasonably healthy. And they have begging down to a science. And of course, neither of us can refuse them anything. But we must choose our time carefully to “accidentally” drop a bit of meat or cheese under our dining chair. (The restaurant staff are obviously not as enamored of these little darlings as we are and basically just ignore them.) So, we have become as sneaky as the kitties. I mean really! How could we possibly resist feeding an orange kitty? Or any kitty for that matter!
Well, it’s about 6:30 pm and while Andy is plotting our route towards our next accommodation, I am finishing this trip report for today. Of course, if what we ordered for dinner is as wonderful as the first night and the fabulous pizza we shared last evening for dinner, I may have to add a comment about our dinner tonight. If not, then when we get back to our room, I will pack as much as possible this evening to give us more time in the morning to linger over our breakfast.
Well, the dinner salad was wonderful but the pasta for the Carbonaro was not al dente. And you know, I just about can’t eat pasta that is super mushy anymore. Spoiled? You bet! But my frozen strawberry daiquiri and Andy’s mojito were perfect.
I am going to miss this quiet village and the fine people at this hotel. But then, all the staff and owners of the hotels, guest houses, and apartments we have visited so far have been very gracious and kind. I really like the people of Greece.
Judging by how dark and ominous the clouds have become, we are in for a noisy night. So, with thoughts of thunder, lightning, and rain happening while we sleep, I nodded off.
Wednesday, September 27, 2023 – Vila Thailanda, Katakolo
Well, what a noisy night we spent. As soon as it got dark, and even before we went to bed, lightning appeared to the west over the water. The lightning was far enough away that we couldn’t hear the thunder and came in both bolts and what looked to me like heat lightning. But during the night it sounded like the lightning storm was happening right over our heads. Because the thunder followed immediately after the lightning strike. But to the best of my knowledge, it didn’t really start to rain heavily until this morning. About 20 minutes before we were ready to go to breakfast. So, we waited for a pause in the downpour and skedaddled down the outside stairs from our lofty room, up the sidewalk to the actual hotel entrance, and inside the dining room with as much speed as our old legs could carry us.
Most other meals we had enjoyed outside. Mostly covered with just a roof (no walls) or large patio umbrellas. But in a torrential downpour, you really need a real roof if you want to stay dry. And I’m positive the serving staff agreed with our decision to not dine al fresco this time. There is after all, a limit to their patience with crazy tourists! (As well there should be.)
Anyway, by the time we had finished breakfast, the rain had all but stopped. So, we hurriedly finished packing, and with the help of Dimitre, the young man who appeared to be available to assist guests at the hotel 24/7, we got our luggage in the car and were on our way before the next squall appeared.
And yes, we really got some serious rain as we were driving north on the Mani Peninsula. But after a while, the sun appeared periodically, and driving was easy. All the roads were good and for most of the way, the roads remained fairly flat, or as flat as this country allows.
When we arrived at what we thought was the right place, there was no actual address on any of the closely spaced gated villas. Each block, or what I would consider a block, was numbered. And our confirmation showed that we should be at number 12 Agios Gerasimos. (Whatever an Agios Gerasimos is. Or any sign that held that reference.) So, we called the number listed on our confirmation.
At first it felt a bit touch and go. The man who answered the call had no idea the Vila was rented for today and tomorrow and said he had to verify the reservation with “the lady”. (Whomever “the lady” was!) But he took our names, country of origin, etc. and said he would have to call us back. Which he did. All was fine. Then he said he would drive over to let us in and explain everything to us. And that he would be over in 6-7 minutes. Which he was.
He went over everything with us, lights, how to open and shut the gate, etc. etc. When I asked about the breakfast that was to be provided by the Vila and where I could find a supermarket, he told us to follow him. So, we got in our car and followed our guide to the closest supermarket.
Calling this tiny space for provisioning a supermarket is a bit of a stretch. In fact, it is such an exaggeration as to be ridiculous. For fresh produce, only a box of tomatoes and a few onions. No cheese or salami that wasn’t pre-packaged. No meat (or I think it was meat) that wasn’t frozen. In fact, the store was actually smaller than your average 7-11. But our guide was there to buy us groceries for our breakfast. So, 2 quarts of milk, 2 pint sized bottles of chocolate milk, 3 types of bread, a package of bologna and cheese, several small containers of butter, a big jar of cherry jam, some Cheetos (more like weak cheese straws), a 12 pack of bottled water, 2 packaged chocolate croissants, a milk chocolate bar, 4 small containers of yogurt, a quart of orange juice, several small packages of Nescafe (for our breakfast coffee) and 15 fresh eggs were packaged up and ready for our taking and all paid for by Vasilis.
After Vasilis (our host/guide/whatever) led us part way back to the Vila, we waved goodbye to each other and headed back to our residence for the next 2 nights to unload our groceries and bring in our luggage from the car.
And since it was nearly 3:00 pm when we got back to the Vila, I decided since we had so much bread, I might as well use some of our breakfast supplies to make us lunch. So, bologna and cheese sandwiches with a side of insipid cheese straws. Followed by Caprice. (Greek chocolate wafer rolls.) They at least were wonderful.
After lunch, Andy explored the sandy beach, and I got caught up on this travel report. And what a beautiful beach this is. Sandy and with a gentle slope into the water. And off to the right towards the marina, a huge floating hotel (aka cruise ship) was moored. Frankly, the ship looked like it was a picture of a cruise ship that had been cut and pasted into a picture of a small and quiet harbor. But we knew why it was in port. Because we too were in this area of Greece to see ancient Olympia. Which was on our agenda for the next day.
Since we had eaten lunch in the midafternoon, and it was much too early to think about dinner, we spent a bit of quality time with our Kindles. We normally would be sitting outside while reading, but with the rain we had received earlier, the lovely grassy area between the Vila and the beach was alive with some kind of annoying biting insect. So, being the fragile darlings that we are, we took shelter in our air-conditioned living room. Andy with a before dinner Scotch set before him and me with a glass of ice water. Life is good. Well at least until you decide it’s time to go out for dinner and you try to turn off the kitchen lights.
We tried every light switch in this 3-bedroom, one bath apartment to shut off the lights in the kitchen before we went to dinner. But to no avail. Of course, we found the light switch to turn on the colored lights around the perimeter of the kitchen floor and ceiling, and the switch to turn on the lighting under the counter that is open to the living room (totally worthless BTW), but not how to turn off the light by the stove. Oh, there’s a switch by the light, but nothing happens when you flip it either way. So, leaving the kitchen light on, we went to the marina for dinner. I wanted fish.
And there on the menu was a mixed seafood platter just waiting to be ordered. God help me if I ever do that again. At least in Greece. I swear the grease had not been changed since before Covid. The batter for the shrimp (head, tail, guts, and legs), anchovies, cod, and squid was fine, but the fat the seafood had been cooked in tasted rancid to me. And no aioli or tartar sauce for the fish. There was a very garlicky sauce, but it was horrible. Oh well, you can’t win them all.
Then it was back to our Vila for more reading and then lights out. And again, what fun we had with the various light switches. One of them turned on the overhead light in the master bedroom. Great. Always nice to see where you’re going. But how to turn on the lights nicely placed for reading in bed? Not a clue as to how to turn them on. And believe me we looked and then looked some more. But we did find a way to turn on a light under our bed.
Now you too might wonder what that light was for. And please, if you have a reasonable and not naughty suggestion, we would appreciate your input.
Then it was time to turn down the bed. And what to our wondering eyes should appear, but pillows without pillowcases. So, we went to the linen closet expecting to find a nice assortment. Nope. Not a pillowcase to be found. So, remembering that there were two other bedrooms from which to raid supplies, we found not only more pillows, but some actually had pillowcases on them. I chose one and off to bed I went.
Now, if you have ever slept on a scented pillow and enjoyed it, more power to you! But I woke up in the middle of the night thinking we were being poisoned. Because the air smelled so bad, I could hardly stand to keep breathing. I was sure there was a leak in the apartment of some kind that was going to prove fatal. But then I realized the odor was coming from my pillow. What? So, I changed to a different pillow. Still the horrible smell. So, I covered the second pillow with one of my jackets and finally could get back to sleep. It wasn’t till morning when I asked Andy if the odor had kept him awake when he answered, “what odor” that I began to question my sanity. Which now brings us to…..
Thursday, September 28, 2023
Andy in his infinite wisdom had not chosen a “Laura Ashley” pillow. And low and behold, his pillow did not stink. So, the first thing I did was get rid of the retched things and find one that was not scented. God, who would do such a mean thing to an unsuspecting tourist? Anyway, I think I have solved the problem and that I should be able to sleep better tonight. And today was going to be fun. After all, this was our day to visit ancient Olympia. But first, breakfast.
How to describe a packaged chocolate croissant? Well, for me horrible works just fine. And Nescafe powdered coffee? Not worth bothering. And the whole wheat bread that made great sandwiches yesterday, would have been fabulous, but the toaster was dead. And of course, because there was no fruit at the “supermarket” we had visited the day before, our banana apple yogurt was less than desirable. But the scrambled eggs I made were OK. And so was the dried bread (I think it’s called rusk) slathered with lots of jam. We didn’t even bother opening the orange juice in a carton and neither of us was interested in the chocolate milk.
So, after washing the dishes in the sink and letting them air dry, we were on our way to ancient Olympia. Which was fabulous!
Olympia, located in the Ilia region in the north-west of the Peloponnese Peninsula, dates back to the end of the final Neolithic period (4th millennium BC), and is considered one of the most important places to trace the roots of Western society due to its religious, political, and sports tradition. Olympia was the center of worship of Zeus, the father of the twelve Olympian gods. Some of the most remarkable works of art were created to adorn Altis, the sacred grove and sanctuary.
Great artists, such as Pheidias, put stamps of inspiration and creativity here, offering unique artistic creations to the world. Μany masterpieces have survived: large votive archaic bronzes, pedimental sculptures, and metopes from the temple of Zeus, and the famous complex of Hermes by Praxiteles. These are all major works of sculpture and key references in the history of art.
Olympia was also the birthplace of the most famous and important sporting event in the ancient world. The Olympic Games took place here every four years from 776 BC to 393 AD. The Olympic Game, the most famous and important sporting event in the ancient world—paid homage to the finest athletes. That tradition continues to this day, nearly 3,000 years later. But Olympia was not just used every four years to laud mortals. It was also a place where remarkable works of art and culture were created and shared to worship the Greek god Zeus.
It is this melding of history and the molding of modernity that makes this site so special. The Olympic Games in the times of ancient Greece were about more than sport. They represented peace and the nobility of competition. These ideals, and elements of the events, have continued to this day.
The modern Olympic Games are undoubtedly the world’s most important sporting competition and have their basis here. From the marathon to the olive wreath and the regularity of the event, there are still clear influences today from the ancient Greek times.
Some pictures from Olympia.
Stepping into the stadium, you imagine the roar of the crowd. This is the same track where athletes raced from the very beginning of the games. While the remains of dozens of buildings and temples sit among the shade of trees on the archaeological site. Some were specifically built for sporting events, and some for the worship of Zeus. The on-site museum holds a collection of priceless artefacts that once decorated the sanctuary. And of course, we had to visit the museum.
After walking around this amazing site and visiting the museum, we felt it must be time for ice cream (me) and iced coffee (Andy). After all, we had been on the same ground that the ancients used when competing against their fellow athletes. But at least we were allowed to wear clothes. Apparently during the first Olympics, the men competed naked and barefooted. Not a pair of Nike shoes to be found. But, to keep from being sunburned to a crisp, they were allowed to cover their bodies with olive oil and dusty earth. What a sight that must have been! Anyway, it was truly awe inspiring just to be on this site. A visit I hope I never forget.
Then back to our car, a stop for lunch, a bit of previsioning at a large supermarket that actually had produce, then back to our apartment for a swim.
Andy got wet but with grey clouds looming over us and the weather folks predicting more thunderstorms, we decided a swim might not be the smartest way to spend our time. So, back in our Vila with the air conditioner humming away and some quality time with our Kindles.
Since we had both just about had it with Greek food, I made dinner. A bologna and cheese sandwich, fruit salad, a sliced tomato, and more of the wimpy Cheetos cheese straws that hopefully we will never encounter again. Then part of a milk chocolate bar for dessert. Then to bed, perhaps to sleep without the stench of perfumed pillows.
Friday, September 29, 2023 – Galaxa Mansion, Galaxidi
Had called the day before to ask the caretaker to meet us so we could turn over the key and gate opener/shutter at 10:30 am. As we were taking our bags to the car at about 10:15, “the lady” appeared. Very pleasant, and truly I didn’t have the heart to tell her the inadequacies I mentioned earlier to her face. So, we thanked her for a nice stay, bought some of her brother’s honey, and were on our way by 10:30 am.
And right away, the terrain was different. It was flat farmland. Flat. The first flat land I think we had yet to encounter. But of course, it didn’t last. As soon as we got to the top of the western part of the Peloponnese Peninsula and close to the town of Patras, we were once again in hill and mountain country. And then, there it was. The bridge over the Gulf of Corinth.
The Rio–Antirrio Bridge is one of the world’s longest multi-span cable-stayed bridges. It crosses the Gulf of Corinth near Patras, linking the town of Rio on the Peloponnese Peninsula to Antirrio on mainland Greece. Its official name is the Charilaos Trikoupis Bridge. The bridge is widely considered to be an engineering masterpiece, owing to several solutions applied to span the difficult site. These difficulties include deep water, insecure materials for foundations, seismic activity in the area, the probability of tsunamis, and the expansion of the Gulf of Corinth due to plate tectonics.
Well, even with all the things that could have gone wrong while we were crossing the bridge, they didn’t happen. The bridge was just beautiful to see and drive over. However, it was the most expensive toll bridge we have ever crossed. But I guess that’s all right for a once in a lifetime experience. (13 euros, 70 cents) The bridge was sleek and modern and except for the expense was a joy to cross. So, now we are back on mainland Greece.
And what a beautiful ride along the mainland coast of the Gulf of Corinth. Up and around ragged hills and mountain slopes, with charming villages high in the hills to right on the shore.
We stopped for lunch in Zakynthos on St. Nicholas beach. Ordered cod that had just been caught by the father of our waiter. The boat was tied up right by our table. Then on to Galaxidi.
Found our mansion with no trouble. The nice young receptionist told us we were given an upgraded room. No extra charge. Very quaint, with all the accoutrements we had expected. But very, very small quarters. And to my sheer horror, it also held the same horrific smell that had previously given me a headache. I have surmised at this point, that it may not have been the Laura Ashley pillows that smelled so bad. That the laundry detergent or some kind of drier sheet that is used by hotels etc. is scented and therefore the culprit. Whatever causes the smell, I am not liking it one tiny bit! So, tonight it’s Tylenol PM for me so that hopefully I can sleep through the night.
After loading more library books on my Kindle, we went across the street to the mansion’s patio bar.
Andy had an iced coffee drink, and I had a mojito. Fabulous drink. I plan to have another one just before I go to bed since the hotel bar is open until 11:00 pm.
Meanwhile, I am getting caught up on this travel report, while the unscreened windows stay wide open to hopefully carry some of the smell away. So, which is worse? The smell or a thousand new bites? I’m beginning to yearn for home! But with windows that open, I was able to get rid of the smell by air circulation. Yeah me! Then it was time for dinner.
Since our mansion/hotel is in a residential area, we decided to walk down our hill, around the first inlet, then along the road to the second inlet for dinner. Not a long walk but enough to work up an appetite. (About a half kilometer each way.)
We chose a restaurant that offered dolmades (stuffed grape leaves), because Andy is particularly fond of them. On the same menu was schnitzel, which I like very much. So, after ordering, we enjoyed watching other diners and since we were right on the bay, watching small boats come into the harbor. Andy also ordered a dish that was basically cream, feta, and a bit of spice (I think cayenne) whirled together.
When my schnitzel arrived, I thought the waiter had brought me a triple portion. OMG, there was enough meat on my plate to serve 4 hungry eaters. And the ever-present French fries. I swear, after I get home, I am not going to eat another French fry until next summer. French fries are served with everything here. And sometimes, they are even hot.
Towards the end of our meal, I realized I was being eaten alive. My lower legs felt like they were on fire. So, we hastened through the rest of our meal, eating as much as we could. But then, it was time to pay for dinner.
I am going to take a moment at this time to explain the etiquette of paying for one’s meal. And a bit of what it’s like to eat in restaurants in Greece. If you were so inclined, you could sit over your empty plates until the restaurant turned off its lights at 2:00 am. Or so it would seem. None of the citizens of this great country appear in a hurry to leave their table. They dawdle. And the waiters don’t appear eager to have patrons hurry off either. And then, most adults must have an after-dinner smoke or seven. I have seen more people smoking in Greece than any other European country we have visited. And there is almost always too much food. And often a small complimentary appetizer or bread plate and/or an after dinner treat unique to that particular restaurant.
So, after practically tripping our waiter to bring us our check, we made a hasty retreat from the restaurant. By this time, it was dark. And unlike other small villages, there was very little lighting. But we managed.
As we were approaching our room with the mansions’ lovely patio bar right across the way, we decided to have a seat in the bar and watch the moon come over the mountain and the bay.
Andy had a small glass of Kahlúa. I decided I really didn’t need another mojito, so I was prepared to just enjoy the ambiance of the setting. Well, that is, until a party of 4 seniors ordered dessert. Then, I simply could not resist ordering a chocolate soufflé. And OMG, I have never tasted anything so delicious. What a way to top off an evening.
Then, happily ready for a good night’s sleep, we crossed the road and into our room. After a few pages in our respective books, we decided we had enjoyed enough of what today could bring and decided to call it a day.
Saturday, September 30, 2023 – Theatro Hotel Odysseon, Kalambaka
After a fabulous breakfast on the hotel’s patio bar, complete with a visit from the resident tortoise I might add, we were ready to be on our way. But before we could leave, I just had to ask how a tortoise could live on a terrace complete with steps? I just could not imagine a small tortoise climbing and descending steps. But yes, tortoises can go up and down steps. How do I know this? I asked our hotel concierge if this was possible. He assured me that yes indeed the tortoises (it turns out there are 3 tortoises that call the patio bar their home) most certainly can get around just fine. Well, there you go. You learn something new every day. And yes, it was very charming having a tortoise as a breakfast mate. I just wish I had been able to meet the other two also. So, with luggage safely tucked in our car, and our adventure hats firmly affixed to our heads, we were on our way to our next destination.
Both of us had really enjoyed this beautiful little village with its clock tower that signaled the hour and its church bells that rang with what can only be described as “any old time they wanted”. There seemed no rhyme or reason for when they sounded, but then who are we to know the sacred signals that are known only to the residents of any given town. We are simply tourists blessed with the opportunity to witness paradise firsthand!
So, with fond memories to take with us and our trusty map of Greece close at hand, we were back on the road.
Today’s drive would take us north and inland and to the land of ancient monasteries. The area we will be visiting for the next 3 days is called Meteora. But along the way, we witnessed firsthand some of the devastating effects of Storm Daniel. Some roads were closed, even a part of the toll road we had planned to take, forcing us to make unplanned detours. But eventually we found our hotel, and no one was harmed in the process.
According to www.visitgreece.gr “One of the greatest monuments of the world, protected by UNESCO and characterized by it as “A Preserved and Protected Monument of Humanity”, Meteora is the most important after Aghios Oros (Mt. Athos) monastic center in Greece. The first ascetics came here in the 11th century. Meteora, however, flourished as a monastic center between the 13th and 14th century as many people who lived in the nearby areas embraced the monastic way of living.
Many years ago, the only way of accessing the monasteries of Meteora was by climbing. Back then this meant that you must strive for isolation and pursuit of God. Nowadays this is considered to be an alternative activity and the best way to enjoy the uniqueness of the landscape. Furthermore, most visitors take the steps that have been carved in the rocks. It is also breathtaking to walk along the paths hidden behind the massive rocks, which are considered to be created by clysmian substances, rocks and other materials that were carried by a big river which used to be in this area. Constant wind and rain erosion, as well as other geological changes that happened in the course of time, gave to the rocks their present shape.”
One of the things many people wonder about is the meaning of the name Meteora. Apparently “Meteora” didn’t originate from a fallen meteorite. “Meteora” was the name the monks gave to the giant rock pillars they saw back in the 14th century. It is thought that monks felt the giant cliffs remained suspended between the heavens and the earth. The word Meteoro or Meteoron (plural is Meteora) in the Greek vocabulary translates into something that remains suspended in midair or a thing that floats in the sky. It’s a synonymous word to meteors and the meteorites used in the English language to describe the celestial objects entering our atmosphere or floating in space, originating both from the Greek word “meteoro”.
After arriving we had a late lunch (Latin American nachos) (don’t ask) then up to our room for me to write and Andy to read out on our small balcony. Then off to dinner where Andy was brave enough to order Trachanas – a soup (the pasta is made from flour and fermented milk or yogurt) and the broth (who knows). He liked it OK, but I don’t think I am going to be asked to duplicate it at home. (Fat chance of that anyway!) And of course, while dining, vicious nasty little critters decided my ankles were fair game, so all night I was driven crazy by bites that refused to settle down. Can we go home now? No, first we have to visit Meteora. So, with happy thoughts of climbing and descending stone and wood steps until my body was worn to a frazzle, I drifted off to sleep.
