Once again, we took our lives into our own hands and headed away from the safety and sanity of our home into the unknown wilderness. But unlike most of our other trailer trips, this year we stayed exclusively in the great state of Washington. And what an adventure we had.
You know, getting old isn’t easy. And the older we get, the less flexible (in ever so many ways) we become. So, whereas 30 years ago we would have just gone with the punches, now it’s (at least for me) OMG, we are going to die! What happened to that brave girl who shed unforeseen difficulties like water off a duck’s back? Where did she go? And who is this new person with the doomsday mentality? I’m telling you the truth; I much prefer the younger me. And I’d bet good money that Mr. C. does too. But we are what we are and there is no getting around that simple fact of life.
But we made it home safely with lots of great memories and some fun tales and pictures to share with you.
I’m dividing our trip into 4 segments. Makes it easier for me, and I know there is only so much of me you can stand at any one time!
So, there will be:
SEGMENT 1 – MAY 3-9, 2024
SEGMENT 2 – MAY 10-15, 2024
SEGMENT 3 – MAY 16-21, 2024
SEGMENT 4 – MAY 22-30, 2024
I hope you enjoy my trip reports. I love writing about our adventures. And I know many of you are travelers, either by pulling a trailer or seeing our beautiful land by car. And if I can help with a bit of insight about places you too might like to visit, then I have fulfilled my goal.
And as always, peace and love to all.
MAY 3, 2024 – CRESCENT BEACH AND RV PARK, PORT ANGELES – site 23
Well, even waking up early doesn’t always mean an early start. At about the same time, around 6:15 am, we both jumped out of bed rearing to get going. (OK, we don’t jump any longer, but you know what I mean!) Showers a pair, breakfast, and all the last-minute items packed in the truck. And away we go to hook up the trailer.
As we are driving along, I jokingly mention the hitch. Oh God, Andy says, “I knew there was something I forgot”. So, he drops me off at the trailer so I can store the last of our things (toiletries, pills, pillows, Aeropress, etc.) and basically get the cabin ready for takeoff. (OK, not takeoff, but just about!) So, muttering something under his breath, Andy drives back to the house to attach the one item we must always bring along when we head out on a trailer adventure. Almost everything else can be purchased along the way. But to hitch up a trailer, you must have a hitch!
Anyway, after returning to the trailer he remembered that to keep the hitch steady when traveling over bumpy roads or suddenly breaking, he needed to also attach the hitch vice. (To the hitch itself.) However, his socket set was still in our garage. So, second trip back to the house to retrieve the socket set. Good thing our trailer storage site is only 5 minutes from home!
At this point, we are still ahead of schedule, but thinking maybe we are getting a bit old for this game. Because I could have noticed that there was no hitch on the truck too. I was there. Oh well, we still left Camano Island at 11:00 am. Our first destination – the Edmonds-Kingston ferry. But in Stanwood we had to stop because one of the stabilizing bars was dragging. (First time ever!) Anyway, Andy showed that stabilizer bar who was boss, and away we went in less than 5 minutes.
I figured with our luck; we would have to wait at least 2 hours in line. It being Friday and all. But we only had to wait 15 minutes before we were safely parked in the bowels of the MV Suquamish. Then off the vessel and on to lunch in Kingston at Los Tres Compadres. Then, on to Crescent Beach and RV Park, site 42.
After checking in, I found that site 42 was not quite what I expected. So, after talking with one of the people who worked at the park, we were able to change to site 23 which was much more to our liking.
Having survived the early part of the day without flipping out or just packing it in, and since it was after 5:00 pm, we decided a safe arrival drink was called for. So, a martini for me and a Manhattan for Mr. C. were much appreciated.
After having a big lunch, we decided that a simple appetizer dinner was all that was required. Followed by a bit of reading and an early bedtime. So, 9:00 pm found both of our heads happily resting on our pillows which fortunately we did not leave at home!
MAY 4, 2024 – CRESCENT BEACH AND RV PARK
Great burl in the tree right next to our trailer
Andy woke up early and went for a walk at Salt Creek Recreation Area. (It’s right next door to our campground.) This area is considered Washington’s premiere shore diving destination because it apparently offers a breathtaking underwater park replete with sea urchins, anemones, sea cucumbers, and wolf eels.
For those of us who stay above water, there is wonderful tide pooling populated by a myriad of critters in their rocky pools at low tide. There are also plenty of coves and rocks to explore if you are a kayaker. Marine mammals are also abundant in this area. Salt Creek Rec Area is also on the Whale Trail, so it’s possible to see whale spouts from the cliffs. A perfect spot just to enjoy the beach, stroll, or find that perfect spot out of the wind to soak up the sun in a sheltered cove. Camping and RV sites are also available.
I got up around 8:00 am and started prepping for breakfast. Just as I was ready to sit down and read until he returned to the trailer, he walked in the door. Prefect timing. After a hearty breakfast, we decided to take a drive out to Neah Bay.
We had been to Neah Bay last a few years ago when we were camping at the Quileute Oceanside Resort in La Push. But I really wanted to see the area again. But for those of you who have not ventured along the coast past Port Angeles, you need to know there is no such thing as a straight road along the way. It’s up and down, twists and turns, 2 lanes (kinda sorta), paved most of the way, but gravel occasionally where slides have played havoc with the road surface and railing. And there have been lots of slides over the years. Lots! Actually, it was quite a bumpy ride.
So, it is not a quick ride. But scenic? You bet! And worth the drive? Absolutely.
So, state highway (SH)-112 from our campground to Neah Bay. Had a great lunch at the Warmhouse Restaurant, then decided it was time to head back. But with a bit of a different route. (Not that there are a lot of ways back to Crescent Beach. There are only two.) But at least part of the way was a new road for us. And we always like finding a new road to drive.
So, SH-112 to SH-113. Then at the end of 113, left onto US highway 101. Then just past Lake Crescent, a left onto East Beach Road, right on Joyce-Piedmont Road and finally onto Crescent Beach Road which brough us right back to our site.
After that, it was writing for me and another walk for Andy.
Then dinner, reading, and another early to bed.
An absolutely great way to spend our first full day away from home.
May 5, 2024 – CRESCENT BEACH AND RV PARK
After a great night’s sleep for both of us, Mr. C. went for a short beach walk while I started breakfast. Just as I finished frying up the bacon, he magically appeared. (The man has perfect timing.) After a leisurely breakfast, we decided to go into Port Angeles for a small bit of provisioning.
I always leave home with the basics (ground beef, ground lamb, flank steak, bacon, chicken, link sausages, dinner sausages, along with some type of homemade pasta sauce, soup or chili, cookies, and breakfast bread in the freezer. But depending on when and how I want to serve these items, I leave some purchases for when need dictates.
And for this evening’s meal I decided to serve ground lamb patties. And everyone knows you can’t enjoy the full on “ground lamb patty” experience without a side of tzatziki. Duh! Thus, the need for a cucumber and some plain yogurt. That and some hummus and cooked red skin potatoes liberally doctored with butter and sour cream, and you have an easy and delicious trailer meal.
And for those of you who have gone out in your trailer or motor home for a month will attest, you simply can’t bring every food item with you. Plus, it’s fun to go shopping when you’re camping if only to break up the monotony of fabulous natural wonders and quiet solitude that you often find when trapped in a beautiful setting. But enough about food. (You would think I was posting this trip report on a food blog!)
Anyway, after we left the Safeway in Port Angeles, we decided to take a side trip up the Elwha/Olympic Hot Springs Road. As with many spontaneous outings, we were thwarted by lack of knowledge. The road is now closed after 2 miles. Apparently when the upriver dam (Glines Canyon) was blasted away (completing the largest dam removal project in US history, BTW) the river decided to run free, including washing out the road. After parking the truck, we decided to get out and take pictures of the mighty Elwha River in all its glorious free flow.
Then back in the truck and back to camp for a bit of lunch.
After lunch Andy decided to drive up to Lake Crescent to take a short hike up to Marymere Falls. The falls are accessed by a 0.9 mile, well-maintained, dirt trail through an old-growth lowland forest consisting of fir, cedar, hemlock, alder trees and 2 wooden bridges.
I decided to stay in camp and whip up this report and help Harry Bosch solve another mysterious murder. Don’t know Detective Hieronymus “Harry” Bosch – look him up!
After dinner, a couple rounds of SkipBo, reading, and an early to bed. Another wonderful day in paradise.
MAY 6, 2024 – QUILEUTE OCEANSIDE RESORT, LA PUSH – site 11
The view out our back window
The sea stacks just offshore
The perfect spot
Well, once again we lucked out. No rain while hitching up. Now, that might not seem like a big thing to those of you who have never folded a tent or hitched up a trailer in the rain. If not, let me be the first to inform you that it’s really nice to leave camp in dry clothes. And yes, we can always go back into the hitched trailer and change into dry clothes. But if you’re tent camping, changing clothes in the confines of the front seat of your vehicle, is truly no fun at all. So, in either instance, it’s much more pleasant when changing clothes is not required. (Sometimes it’s the little things that go right that can cause the most joy. Or so it seems to me.) Anyway, we got off at 11:06 am without a hitch. Oh wait, let me rephrase that. We did have a hitch, but we got off without any problem. (The same word with its various meanings can be just so much fun! That’s the main reason I so love to write!) Anyway, by 11:06 am we were on the road again headed for the Quileute Oceanside Resort. One of our favorite places to park our trailer. But first, our road (US-101) would take us around Lake Crescent.
Now, if you have never driven this stretch of road, you are in for a surprise. There are very few settings as beautiful as this lake with its surrounding landscape. And because the lake and mountains are part of Olympic National Park, there are very few dwellings on the lake. Which makes the lake even more scenic.
When we reached Forks, we stopped for a couple of grocery items before heading West to La Push.
After lunch, Mr. C. went for a short walk on the beach while I put items together for the charcuterie board I planned to serve before our dinner with friends.
One of the main reasons we come to this camp so often is because it is close to the Quillayute River Resort which our dear friends Chip and Linda own and operate. (A fantastic get-away BTW.) Along with our close friends Jim and Margo, it’s like a family reunion.
So, while Chip was prepping for the pizzas (they have a real Italian pizza oven at the resort), Margo and I set up the charcuterie board, Linda baked homemade gougères, while Jim and Andy mixed M & M’s (Martinis and Manhattans).
The pizza oven
Chip the pizza master
Linda supervising the whole project
One of six perfect pizzas
After that we sat down to eat 6 different kinds of pizza, Linda’s grilled broccoli salad, and maple cream pie for dessert. OMG. I demanded the recipe from Linda after just one bite. The pie was just that delicious. So, in the future, I will pass the recipe on to you.
After a lovely evening spent with these amazing people, it was time to head for camp. After parking the truck, Mr. C. decided it needed to be closer to the trailer at which point the trouble began. The truck wouldn’t start again. No power. Andy couldn’t even lock the doors.
We had been having electrical trouble with the truck off and on for some time. But it had been running fine recently. And it had just started at our friend’s resort, just 15 minutes before.
So, Andy did what any intelligent person would do. He called an expert. And Jim, just happens to fit that description. Jim owned a very successful auto repair shop on Queen Ann Hill in Seattle for decades. So, the man knows car and truck engines.
Jim thought it was probably either the battery or possibly the alternator. He said he would come take a look in the morning. Which he did. And he was spot on. One of the wires from the engine to the battery had come loose. He tightened the fitting and the truck leaped into action.
Sometimes our guardian angels do indeed look after us. This could have happened in the middle of nowhere and with both of us possessing absolutely no mechanical aptitude, we would have been stuck. Sure, we have AAA, but often the areas we visit have no cell service. Considering everything, we were very, very lucky it happened when it did!
MAY 7, 2024 – QUILEUTE OCEANSIDE RESORT
Well, as you might expect, I didn’t sleep really well last night. I envisioned the whole next day spent finding someone to fix the problem with our truck.
We had even gone so far as to make an appointment at an electrical repair place in nearby Forks, if we could get the truck started with jumper cables.
As I explained in my May 6th post, the problem was solved withing minutes. And we were back to our regularly scheduled program. Which for today was nothing more than spending the evening again with our dear friends Jim, Margo, Chip, and Linda. Which meant that until 5:00 pm our entire day was open to get into whatever trouble we could find.
So, Andy went for a nice walk to Second Beach, while I wrote for a while, read for a while, and generally was completely lazy.
Where normally I would be accompanying Andy on some of his less strenuous adventures, this trip is different. It seems my arthritis is acting up again and my left leg is taking a beating. So, always being content with my own company and wanting Andy to enjoy the outdoors as much as possible, I sent him on his way.
But before I go any further, a bit about Second Beach. Source – The Outdoor Society.
The trail starts at a small parking lot, and quickly crosses a small wooden bridge, before heading into the woods. As you walk along, the forest gets more interesting. Giant trees sprout multiple spires, turning views of forests into wooded cathedrals. Every direction you look, branches and roots are grasping everything, large stumps intertwined with the life-force of its neighbors. Many hurry down the 0.7 mile trail to reach the beach. But don’t miss the beauty the walk itself has to offer.
As the ocean draws closer, the roar of the crashing waves increases. From here, the trail starts losing elevation fast, a series of supported switchbacks leading down to the forest wall before the beach officially starts. Even if you peek, the true beauty of Second Beach won’t be visible until you stand on the giant driftwood lining the beach. It is here, once the trail meets the driftwood, that Second Beach’s beauty is shown in full force.
To the south, endless sea stacks appear in the breaking waves, inviting you to walk down the coast until you hit Teahwhit Head. This immense wall of sea stacks and jagged, eroding land separates Second Beach from Third Beach, helping make this stretch of beach cut off from hikers on Third Beach. To the north, the beach quickly heads toward a rocky outcropping that is as stunning as anything on the Pacific Coast. Over time, the crashing waves found a weakness in the ridge, slowly chipping away until it created a bus-sized hole right near the crashing waves.
So, basically, 2nd beach offers something for everyone. A great place to visit.
At 5:00 pm, with more charcuterie board items for the appetizer course, we headed off for dinner with our friends. Another great meal (kale, sausage, veggie, and cannellini bean soup, warm homemade bread, and more of Linda’s Maple Cream Pie. Then hugs all around and back to our trailer for a great night’s sleep.
As I was drifting off to sleep, I wondered what life would be like without good friends. Luckily, I have never had to attain that knowledge firsthand. As I have said many times before, I am well and truly blessed.
MAY 8, 2024 – FORT FLAGLER STATE PARK, NORDLAND – site 50
The view from our site
Patti next to the trailer reading. What a novel experience for her. (Sorry, couldn’t resist!)
I am always sad to leave La Push. The setting is so beautiful, and we so love spending time with Chip and Linda at their fabulous resort. But it was time to push on to our next campsite at Fort Flagler on Marrowstone Island. So, back around Lake Crescent, through Port Angeles, around Sequim, towards Chimacum (South of Pt. Townsend), over the bridge to Naval Magazine Indian Island (commonly called “Indian Island”), and along the fenced off road (read why below), and then over another bridge onto Marrowstone Island. Destination Fort Flagler and campsite 50.
A bit about Naval Magazine Indian Island
Naval Magazine Indian Island is a controlled access installation. Access is limited to authorized military personnel and Department of Defense civilian employees. The installation is home to a deep-water ammunition pier and a conventional ordnance storage site. Indian Island provides munitions support to the Navy and Joint and Allied vessels. The whole island except for the Marrowstone Island access road is therefore off limits to the likes of us. Their loss I figure! Humph! Our loss too, because the entire 2,700-acre island hosts a wealth of cultural and natural resources, including several Native American archeological sites, historical pioneer homestead sites, and WWII-era buildings. The island is also home to a wide diversity of wildlife species, including 10 established bald eagle nesting sites, several hundred deer, coyotes, otters, and an occasional cougar.
A bit about Fort Flagler
Fort Flagler was a Coast Artillery fort that along with Fort Warden and Fort Casey once guarded Admiralty Inlet, the nautical entrance to Puget Sound as part of a “Triangle of Fire” defensive plan. Admiralty Inlet was considered so strategic to the defense of Puget Sound that the three forts were placed at the entrance with huge guns creating a “triangle of fire.” This military strategy was built on the theory that the three fortresses would thwart any invasion attempt by sea.
Fort Flagler was established in 1897 and activated in 1899, then closed in 1953 and was subsequently purchased as a state park in 1955. But back to the present.
Since we had never stayed at Fort Flagler, we weren’t quite sure what to expect. But for anyone who loves a view of Port Townsend Bay and the Olympic Mountains, this is the place to stay.
Our site was out in the open, with the trailer’s large back window providing a million-dollar view. And it was nice out. The sun was shining and for the first time on this trip, we could take our books outside to read without putting on every piece of clothing we owned. And I must tell you, it felt just wonderful to sit outside in such a quiet and peaceful park. People were flying kites. Others were simply taking strolls around the camping loop we’re on. Others had their leashed dogs out and about smelling every bush, tree, log, etc. that the length of their leash would allow. In other words, the area was filled with happy campers and daytime visitors. Many here because of the minus 3 tides that allowed them to pick up some interesting edibles at around 7:00 in the morning. So, after setting up camp and taking it easy most of the day, we headed into Port Townsend for dinner.
When we were camping with our dear friends Craig and Marsha last year, we ate dinner one night at the Silver Water Café in Port Townsend. I really wanted to go back to that restaurant because the food they serve is excellent. So, that’s just what we did. And the food lived up to my memory. Wonderful.
Then back to camp to read for a bit before, for me at least, an early to bed. There is just something about camping that makes me want to get extra sleep. It’s like I am either catching up from our busy lives back home, or I am storing up energy for when we get back and our busy lives resume. Whichever, I don’t fight it. I go to bed when the urge hits.
MAY 9, 2024 – FORT FLAGLER STATE PARK
Woke up this morning to bright sunshine and very little breeze. In other words, a perfect day. The mountains were out in all their glory and the bay was calm. It could not have been more ideal.
Andy read outside while I showered, then the usual thing that happens every day happened again this morning. We had breakfast. After that I went outside with my book and read until it was time to go for a short exploratory drive around Fort Flagler. Since this had been a military installation, there were many indications of how important this military instillation had been in its day. Old cement gun bunkers, a fine light house, and beautiful officer’s quarters that were currently available for overnight guests.
On the way out to the lighthouse
But the one thing that struck me as a total waste of the taxpayer’s money, were the empty barracks that we believe must have been dwellings for single servicemen. OK, I get that this is no longer an active military base. But couldn’t these empty barracks be made useful as say, temporary shelters for homeless folks? No, they wouldn’t be fancy housing, but they would provide a roof over someone’s head, a warm bed to sleep in, and bathrooms. And there must have been a mess hall somewhere close by. So, food could be made available too. Then I woke up to reality.
Fort Flagler is too far away from anywhere to help those who are trying to get back on their feet. Job opportunities would be few and far between, and barracks would be no place for a family. And those who simply wanted a free ride for whatever reason – drug or alcohol addiction, mental health issues, etc. would be too far away from any of the agencies that provide the services they might need. But it still made me sad to see these once fine facilities apparently left to molder away.
After returning to camp, Mr. C. decided to take a hike. So, off he went to Mt. Zion.
2 pictures of signs near Chimacum (home of Betty MacDonald who wrote The Egg and I)
I stayed in camp to stare at the water and mountains, write up this report, help my protagonist solve a crime, and generally enjoy my own company.
I have learned over the years that my alone time is a blessing. Not that I would ever wish Mr. C. to just go away for a while. That has never happened. Because he understands that when he is at a rehearsal or performance that I can’t attend or sits at the piano for any length of time, I can happily entertain myself. That I don’t need him to prop me up or be a constant reminder that I am not alone. And I feel the same way. There are many days when I spend hours researching recipes, developing new recipes, and posting recipes on this site. I know he doesn’t feel neglected when I am in my own little world. I may physically be at home, but my mind is far away. So, being alone or together we are never apart.
When he returned from his hike, I made dinner. After dinner we played a rousing game of Bendomino, then off to an early rendezvous with our pillows. Another lovely day in paradise.